Bob's Studebaker Resource Website 1970 Avanti II - RQA0381 - Rims Note: These wheels are no longer available,b ut the data regarding the install is still very viablle
Bob's Studebaker Resource Website
1970 Avanti II - RQA0381 - Rims
Note: These wheels are no longer available,b ut the data regarding the install is still very viablle
This page was created for those inquiring about the alloy wheels on RQA-0381|
The source for the wheels was Ace
Alloy Wheel Company, in California. Your browser must be 'Java enabled'
to see the page. A call will get you the closest dealer to your locale.
GILROY CA 95020
RQA-0381 originally had Magnum 500 chrome steel rims
(Note: This rim was only manufactured in this 1 size)
(more explanations for the non-cognescenti)
Wider rims and Tie Rod ends.
Here are the advertised specs
The 17" diameter clears the tie rod end
) The first thing to realize when going to a wider rim, is that you should STRIVE to keep the centerline of the rim OVER the centerline of the BEARING area.
OFFSET vs Backspace
Offset is measured from the CENTERPLANE of the rim with regards to the MOUNTING plane of the rim. ZERO Offset is equal to a backspace of exactly one half the width of the rim.
If the rim is described as 15 X 6, the rim is actually 7" wide. / (Always add 1" (25.4mm) to the advertised width of any rim as you cannot accurately measure the bead seat to bead seat). /
Positive offset MOVES the mount plane OUTWARD (toward the outer edge of the rim ) , so the rim will be offset farther UNDER the fender.
Conversely, negative offset moves the mount plane INWARD (toward the suspension side. This either makes the center area deeper looking or thicker material wise). It moves the rim farther OUT from under the fender.
Offset us usually measured in Millimeters (mm)
If a rim has 30 offset, the rim will be about an inch and a quarter further/farther under the fender than a rim with Zero offset. (Lack of the "plus" sign usually indicates Positive)
If a rim has -30 offset (minus sign is always added to indicate negative), then the opposite effect is realized and the tire/rim is moved out from under the fender. ( car may look like a "roller skate" and the fenders will be compromised on rebounds.)
Hope this clears thing up a bit.
1) The width of any rim is measured between the bead seats where the tire bead rests. The outer lip on each side, which keeps the tire in place adds (*2) another inch to the width, so a 15 X 6 rim is 7 inches wide. The Ace Alloy Rally's are 8 inches wide.
844....C....Made in USA...M4....2.
3) Offset is the distance from the centerplane of the wheel to the mounting surface. IF the surface that butts up the the rotor is dead center on the rim, the offset is "zero". If the mating surface is closer to the outer edge of the rim, then the offset is positive(+)). Most RWD cars have "0" or negative settings.
4) Backspace is the distance from the inner edge of the rim to the mounting surface. The offset is included in this measurement. The Rally is an extra 1/2" wide on the inside as well as the outside.
The increased width is split evenly on each side of the wheel and does not protrude from the fender nor interfere with the frame.
Each wheel is T-6 heat treated aluminum with a 1580 lb. load rating each.
They have silver pearl finish with a clear coat and the outer surface of
the wheel from the spokes to the lip is polished. The cost was $189.00 per
wheel, plus valves (steel), weights (stick -on), Lug nuts, the cost of
tires and mounting and balancing.
My application has these rims with Pirell 215-60R16 front and
225-60R16 rear tires. Only one small area of interference was encountered.
The upper outer forward grease fitting on the passenger side contacted the
inner lip of the rim on a hard LEFT turn backing down a driveway. I removed
the fitting and replaced it with a flush plug that can be removed and
replaced with a 'Zerk' when it's time to grease the suspension. No
further problems have been encountered.
These tire calculations can help you with sizing and speedometer calculations
ALSO note::::Tire clearance with the front fender:
The rear can stand almost anything in the way of tires without a problem
Before you commit to these, email me with ANY questions you may have. This is an expensive (around $1500.00) upgrade (1998).