Opinion by Dave Levesque, SteelTech Solutions, Marion, IN (Supplier of disk brakes for Studebaker cars, Studebaker Avanti and Avanti II) DJlevesque@webtv.net ................sometime in 1998 Disk Brake Rotors The1968 Big Ford- LTD and Country Squire Wagon are the only ones I have found that are the PERFECT fit. Mopar hubs are wide (bearings far apart) and GM rotors have bearings close together. 1968 BIG Fords are the only perfect fit, but I cleaned out every NAPA warehouse over ten years ago, and haven't found any reasonably priced replacements. When a $50 rotor goes to 180.00 in price, it's time to use something else. This continuing downsizing has left all car buyers with ever smaller brakes, making the lower-demand bigger rotors cost more. The only way I can keep my bigger Super Brakes substantially under Turner Brake prices is to every so often move to a more common rotor as parts prices of my suppliers go up. I'm afraid I may have to someday start using a spacer similar to the one Turner uses with his small Mustang rotors- eventually. But DON'T WORRY, the redrilled GM Police car rotors I use right now are used on many models including Cad, and will be available for many years after the Stude supply dries up. Anyone with my Mopar SuperBrakes can switch to Trailduster and Dodge W150 rotors which will be around for years to come. I can still supply indefinitely any rebuild parts for any of my older big-rotor brakes (You can buy them at parts stores) but I haven't found anything as "Perfect" as the 1968 Country Squire hub. Even though the GM 12 inch Police brakes are not quite as big as my old Mopar brakes, Ted Harbit reports that my 12inch GM disc brakes do a fine job of stopping him from 130 MPH with no booster. The brackets are made for 1953-up spindles but Ted made them fit the 51 with some grinding. Back to the subject of aluminum hubs-- All the aluminum hubs I ran across so far have been outrageously expensive. I wonder how durable an aluminum hub could be for long term driving ... The few I've seen are sold for off-road limited mileage racers or very lightweight T-bucket type rods. Many miles on a Stude sized car may fatigue-em fast. (?) You'd be surprised to find out how many of those "exotic" parts sold for cars are not D.O.T. legal. For instance those Steel Braided brake lines sold by others DO NOT PASS THE WHIP TEST, AND ARE NOT LEGAL FOR THE ROAD. The braided lines disintegrate when they are "whipped" to simulate an out-of-balance wheel, but they are sold anyway.... That is why I only supply O.E.M. style D.O.T. legal hoses and parts (internal nylon and synthetic braids encased INSIDE the hose material "sandwich"). I have spent a good bit of money on Wilwood (and others) parts (they area good comany with good parts) only to find that their boxes and product labels say NOT to use on the street. NOT DOT APPROVED. I'm afraid I will never sell or recommend anything that has not been well tested and well proven. For my sake as well as yours. BUT, if you find an affordable aluminum hub that can be counted on, I sure would like to know how to buy them myself. Any Hub with set #2 and set #6 bearings is a possible candidate. Hubs with set #12 and set #13 bearings can have the bearings replaced with #2 and #6 also, but they have been very narrow small Fords so far.... ALL the others seem to be purposely set to be non compatable by a few thousandths or several. There are NO common sizes like 1-1/8 or 1-1/4. EVERY ONE is purposely measurements like 2.643 or 2.462 or 1.976 or other odd size (No not a Metric equivalent either) so that people do not swap rotors around. I have bored a few hubs to fit whatever I want, but do not want to spend THAT much time on each hub.