June 2005 Nothing was really all that hard. It was just time consuming. Dissassembly and cleaning took the longest time. Followed by assembling the axles and reinstallation of the axles and brake components. There are a couple of things that one should eye critically and pay close attention to. The most critical thing was setting the bearing tolerance and ensuring the correct fit of the bearing to backing plate/seal. You'll need a good press to install the bearing and retainer collar. Under no circumstances should you try and hammer/pound the bearing and retainer onto the axle. Press one at a time, never try both. You will ruin the bearing sure as the dickens. I had to make a tool to press the bearing and retainer onto the axle shaft. I used the shifting tube from a 50 model Studebaker which is 1 1/2' ID. This worked well, until we discovered that the bearing surface was a tad bit bigger then the tube. Had to clamp the tub in the vice and drive axle shaft out using another shaft. BEWARE!!!!!!!!!! Put all parts on in the right direction and placement before pressing the bearing. You get one chance. After that it's blue wrench time! (Torch, that is!!!!!!!!!!) Cleaning the differential housing and associated bearings/cavities is of great importance. The axle bearing is an open bearing and the environment must be clean to keep it clean. Several (3) small buckets and a couple gallons of cleaning fluid (brake cleaner), kerosene, or something none corrosive should do the trick. The housing and all gear and bearing surfaces should be throughly cleaned and new differential lubricant (IAW with shop manual specifications) added. This would be a very good time to change out the pinion seal if it is old and the housing cover gasket. I would recommend that if your housing doesn't have the taped/threaded holes for the grease fittings, that you drill and tap them. Reason, these are open bearings and will need to be repacked often. To do so would mean totally dissasembling both axles to get at the bearing. With the grease fitting installed, all you would need do is grease the bearing semi annually, or annually. Avoid over greasing. Make sure you install plugs, or set screws. Don't leave the grease fitting in place. If the little check ball were to fail, internal pressure could force lubricant out. Anyway, plan on a good 8 hours to do the job, maybe 10 if you discover a leaking wheel cylinder, or two. Take your time and make sure the job is done right.