Motor Mounts - Changing - Raising engine, etc Suggestions from the group ( be sure to see 'recommendation' below) --------------------------- Block of wood under the pan, be sure and drop it back in right holes John Poulos ---------------------------- ............suggested fabricating a brace that allows you to lift on the engine where the oil pan bolts to the block doing one side at a time. Another option would be to fabricate a U - shaped brace that fits around the pan and lifts on the same place of the block. A third option would be to lift the engine with a hoist. This is what I have done in the past on my Olds. Granted there was a need to take the hood off and I had the manifold off at the same time. TimJackman@aol.com ----------------------------- use a 2x8 block of wood laid against oil pan and resting on oil pan rail, go slow & use another piece of wood & jackstand under oil pan for safety, do one side at a time. oldcarfart@aol.com --------------------------- Use something as a backup support for the engine while your hands are in there removing the old motor mount(s) and installing the new. Do not rely solely on the 2x4 to support the engine. One slip and the weight of the engine can squash your hands so that you'll never use them again, other than as clubs. CAltenburg@aol.com ------------------- Recommendation: May 2002 ACTUAL experience - Don't jack the engine up from under the pan - If your pan is not dented, you run the risk of ruining a perfectly good piece. If it is slightly dented from a previous engagement, chances are that it's weakened and will cave in further, possibly interfering with the oil pump strainer. One of the biggest reasons not to, is that if your crankcase gasket is old, the weight of the engine will crush it into ineffectiveness and oil will pour from the rear seal area. Now, you'll really be in a pickle and have to remove and replace or repair it. The best possibility short of using an engine hoist, is to place some large dimension lumber along the side of the pan and allow it to rest on the crankcase bolts. This method will impart most of the upward force to the bolts already hard anchored in the block flange and won't effect the oilpan or gasket. You can do one side, then the other in the same fashion. Other items to consider are the transmission mounts. It may behoove you to loosen or unfasten them to allow enough height in jacking the engine up. bobJ -------------------- Parts - 65-66 chevybaker engine -NAPA number 602-1054 if it is a V8, which is also the same mount used on about all 283s Chevy made from 1964-67. Avanti II The part #'s for the brackets in the picture are: 1563714 Bracket, front support, right 1563715 Bracket, front support, left The insulator itself is 1564698. The same items were used for '65-'66 cars and Avanti II's. I pulled a price book at random and the brackets were priced at $10.93, and the insulator at $13.83 (in 2/77). ============================================= //////At any rate, I want to ditch the Stude motor mounts in favor of a bolt through Chebby type. Does anyone know the parts list/numbers?////// '55-'57 Chebby V-8, common stock at Flaps. ---- another possibilty is to go to an auto wrecker, and get the mounts for a Mazda RX-7. They are a biscuit mount like the Studie, but a tad thicker, and the top plate is an inverted cup that keeps oil off the rubber. I've never seen any in bad shape in the yards. You might have to trim the top plate on one edge with a hacksaw. Be sure to get the nuts, too, as they are metric. These look close enough to the real thing, that they might even puzzle the experts. July 2003 ===============================================