All, I'm looking at matching Barlow Soper's almost 500 horsepower Studebaker V8 with one of my own, and know that I need to start with the heads and camshaft. Can anyone help with advice (or for sale) on R2-R3-Aluminum Stude heads that are flowed and set up for maximum output? How about a roller camshaft for this engine? The motor I'm looking at doing this to is the one in my Avantis, which is a stock R2 powerplant with stock compression using hypereutectic slugs (I think - the previous owner rebuilt it) and an aluminum R2 sized manifold. I'm thinking of swapping the Paxton blower for a Vortec (or two) and an intercooler, if I can get over how ugly the additional plumbing looks (to me). Also, there will be no nitrous oxide, as I don't care for not having the power available to me at all times. Is Corbin Walters still selling Studebaker performance parts? I mean to also contact Jim Lange and Jim Pepper for their take on what it takes to squeeze a lot more umph from the Stude V8. Thanks to all, Chris Altenburg - Always in quest of more! -------------------------------- Chris, I wrote to Barlow and he told me he uses roller lifters. Anytime you use roller lifters you can grind a more radical cam without the attendent poor idle (and poor low RPM response). Talk about having your cake and eating it too. The downside is the price of course. I too am wondering if Corbin Walters' Jet City Studebaker is still in bizness. -ANT ------------------ Now don't be hasty. Replacing the motor mount is a very simple job. Call any of the normal Avanti suppliers and get both mounts (left and right)...might as well do the job right. Support the engine from below ith a jack and a block of wood. ((((Note from Bobj : Don't put this under the oil pan!!! or you'll be removing it too , for repair. Make a U shaped lift from 2X6's to support the engine from the the oil pan flange. You'll be much happier ))) Get underneath and remove the bolts that go through the mount between the frame and the engine. After you get both sides out, raise the engine carfully a few inches. You should be able to raise it a little before you hit the distributor against the firewall. This should give you enough room to remove the 3 bolts holding the mount to the engine. Its easy!!!! Get dirty and give it a try. --------------------- The quick and sure way to check motor mounts is with the hood open and the engine running put the car in gear (drive) and with one foot on the gas and the other on the brake give it a little gas-if the left mount (driver's side) is bad you will see the engine lift on that side. To check the passneger (right) side, put it in reverse and do the same test. Most likely the left mount as this is the side which sees all the wear and tear as the engine always torques (spins) in the direction that causes this side to go bad (and not just on Avantis, all cars that are rear wheel drive exhibit this). As far as the replacement procedure goes, it's quite simple-pay someone to do it for you!-ANT ----------- << Can anyone help with advice (or for sale) on R2-R3-Aluminum Stude heads that are flowed and set up for maximum output? >> I've heard that for the money that either the original R3 heads or the new aluminum R3 heads cost, that you'd be better off modifying regular 289 heads. At the very least put larger intake valves in and hog out the intake ports and unshroud the valves (grind away in the combustion chamber).-ANT ----------------- I need suggestions on removing and replacing an automatic 63 R2 engine. Can the engine and transmission be removed at the same time? I am in need of starting this project soon, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Vince R2692 -------------- Its best to remove the engine and trans as a single unit. Remove the hood to make enough room and remove the radiator, brake booster, etc. Chris 0------------------ Vince, if this were a current rear-wheel drive Ford or Chevy you wouldn't have a problem, but it's a Studebaker with an X member in the frame. I can whip an engine out of my 82 Capri 5.0 in record time with the transmission attached but it depends entirely on being able to hoist the engine up at an angle so the front of the engine clears the engine enclosure while the tailshaft of the tranny tips down to the ground once the crossmember is removed. With the Stude, the whole assemblyh can't tip down like a teeter-totter due to the X member. Drop the tranny, life will be simpler. --- Keith ------------------------ Dear Vtheor, Engine and tranny can be removed as one with standard engine hoist, It`s a two man job, one to run the hoist, one to guide the tail of the tranny. Make sure your on even ground, If a wheel gets stuck, then it starts to get hard. ----------------------- Vince: Don't take Keith's descriptive phrasing too seriously!? The C & K bodied Studebakers (of which your 62-K7 is one), are the easiest Studebakers to remove the engine & Auto Trans in on piece. With the Hood and radiator removed the whole thing just slips out. The trick is to disconnect the trans mounts from the transmission housing first. Just reversing you must first attach the mounts to the frame then swing the trans and engine in between them when installing. Most of the rest of the connections come off as standard stuff. The only difference would be with floor or column mounted Auto shifters. Peter C. ----------------------- All true except for the 56 Golden Hawk which weighs more and has more bulk. However I pulled and swapped engines in a 56 Golden as a kid using a large tree with block and tackle almost by myself. Had my 102 lb Mom lower the Packard engine & tranny as I guided it in. Avanti engines always seemed a lot easier than the GT's in some respects,however a good hoist, jack stands, and a strong assistant that has done it before will make things a lot easier & safer. John #5534 ----------------------------------- >> For me, I put the trany on twice from under the car and twice the new seal and bearing on the tork converter failed after a few hundred miles. When I put the engine and trany back in as a unit every thing is still working good. good luck Martin ----------------------------- Here's a hare brained request: Does anyone know if and where roller rocker arms may be bought that will work on the Studebaker V-8? We're using a roller cam for the motor I'm building and roller rockers would help make horsepower by eliminating one source of friction. Thanks, Chris Altenburg --------------------------- Chris, Dick Datsun printed a series of articles on the V-8 modifications. I seem to remember a story about using a roller cam and rockers. If you don't have his books, let me know and I'll dig them out. Bob Ziff ---------------- I remember a gellow named Gene Gosthnian (sp?) was written up in Due Cento, Dick Datson's publication, a few years ago as having developed such a conversion. I think that he used a stud-mounted rocker rather than the stock shaft valvetrain. ----------------------- Barlow Soper is a big source of help to me. Only this was, you have to 'write' him. I found his mailing address in an issue of AOAI about 3 -4 mailings ago... >>> Christopher.Altenburg@Mci.Com 07/08 4:21 PM >>> Here's a hare brained request: Does anyone know if and where roller rocker arms may be bought that will work on the Studebaker V-8? We're using a roller cam for the motor I'm building and roller rockers would help make horsepower by eliminating one source of friction. Thanks, Chris Altenburg ------------------------ Bob, If you can find it with a minimum of effort, please look it up. I have some of Dick's stuff someplace and will search it out if you come up dry. Thanks, Chris 614-233-8002 (o) 1-800-759-8888, pin 185-0255 (p) christopher.altenburg@mci.com ==== ---------------------------- I'll check out my copies of Dick's stuff for this. Your mentioning it did spark my memory that someone had made a plate which was bolted to the top of each head and threaded for stud mounted rocker arms. Another respondent to my question mentioned the use of Chevy big block rockers, so maybe these have the correct dimensions from fulcrum to valve and pushrod; I know the small block Chryslers (318/340/360 shaft mount) are too long in these dimensions, as well as being too wide. Thanks, Chris 614-233-8002 (o) 1-800-759-8888, pin 185-0255 (p) christopher.altenburg@mci.com ---------------------- All, Does anyone out there have a Big Block Chevy rocker arm he can measure for me? I'm told that its measurements, at a ratio of 1.6:1, is identical to what Studebaker used. This measurement is from the center of the fulcrum to the center point where the rocker actuates the valve, and to the center of where the rocker meets the pushrod. I also need an overall width measurement of the rocker to determine if it is narrow enough to fit next to another one to actuate each pair of Studebaker valves properly. Thanks, Chris Altenburg ----------------- 1.6, 1.7, 1.75 and 1.80 ratio big block Chevrolet rocker arms can be installed on your Stude V8. Eugene Gusthnian used to sell a conversion kit. Then you can use just about any aftermarket big block Chevy rocker arm ratio. His address was 1886 Longview Drive, Middletown, PA 17057 (717)939-4485 ----------------------- I reached Gene and had a good conversation with him. He says that the initial valve guide wear was because he 1. used small block rocker arms, at Dick Datson's suggestion, which had an improper geometry and side loaded the guides too much and, 2. he used inexpensive bronze valve guides. His later use of big block rockers and better quality bronze guides resolved this problem. Unfortunately, he's not making the mounting plates any longer. I'm back to dealing with another person at an Ohio speed shop, who sounds like he knows from whence he speaks. The Studebaker shafts may not be hard enough to use as is, so we'll see where he takes it in the weeks to come. Maybe others will want roller rockers for their Studes after this is all over and done with. Thanks, Chris Altenburg ------------------------------------------