Frames - Avanti + C/K Hawks - 53 - 64 frames They went from 0.078 inch to 0.120 inch. As you can see, this is just over 50% thicker. Gary L. Jul 2003 -------------- (all '53 C/K's have a 0.078 inch frame. ) -------------- Early 53 frames did not have the door jamb to door jamb crossmember. This was added in late 53/early 54, as a strengthening unit. 56J frames were thicker than standard C/K frames ( 12 gauge vs 14 gauge) The frame metal was increased in thickness in 58 or 59 and again in 62. The GT frames are 119 in. thick metal which is a hell of a lot stronger than the 53 thru 58 frames. Avanti frame thicknesses and rail dimensions are considerably different than a Hawk. Avanti II production in mid 80's under Altman, started using 6 cylinder Lark frames due to the depletion of V8 frames. No numbers are known regarding the assignment of these frames, although the 84's are reported to be more involved. Later production was facilitated by creating a custom frame as orders came in. These frames were standard sized to the V8 dimensions and were better quality The frames were of a different gage between 6s and 8s. I don't know that it's as much of a deal with the Larks because they were shorter (although they had different frames as well). The parts books shows only ONE replacement frame for a given year and model but that was only for purposes of replacement - all replacement frames were of the thicker metal. Check around the points where that front crossmember is attached to the side rails. I've had personal experience with finding them broke loose there and so have some other NG members. =============== 59V-8 4door......13 gage 60V-8 4door.......13 gage 60Six 4door........14 gage (2nd) 60Six 4door...15 gage ??? 61V-8 4door.(not cruiser) ...14gage 61Six 4door.........15 gage 62V-8 4door (Y-8)...12 gage 62Six 2dr Sed.........15 gage 63V-8 4door (fleet car of some sort) ...11gage 63Six 4door (Y-4) ...12 gage 64V-8 2door Sed......13 gage 57Commander 4dr sed ...13 gage Studebob Dec 1998 ================================= Repairing structural cracks- DO NOT USE MIG for major structural repairs. Conventional MIG as we know it, (short arc), is of low penetration. It is ok for sheetmetal but not for thicker critical structural components. Real MIG, (spray or pulse arc are of the full penetration variety but these rigs cost many thousands of dollars). TIG, (Tungsten Inert Gas), would be acceptable for lighter guage materials however but auto body work seldom utilizes this type of welding due to equipment costs. Stick is high penetration but be carefull of the composition of rod. For frames, I would recommend at least 8018 and 11018 might be better since I believe that frames were high carbon/tensile material. (The first two/three numbers indicate the yield point while the last two numbers indicate all position welding ac/dc). Also, do not allow it to become to hot. Proceed slowly. If it becomes overheated, use boiling water to cool it down. Cold water will induce cracking. Use more material, (rod), than needed then grind it down as it will provide for strain relief, very important. The ability of welding with stick in one of technique and choice of rod. As I stated in a previous post, the "18" series of welding rods allow welding in all positions with either AC or DC. I peresonally prefer reverse polarity DC which offers the best flow control. AC is the least desireable. -- Nov 2004 I have done a lot of measuring and a Grand Wagoneer (62-91 type FSJ) should be just about a perfect fit under an Avanti-both have 109" wheelbases and the old GW is a narrow SUV. Now you will have 4WD and two live axles but it would make an awesome tow vehicle for your show Avanti on the trailer. Now I need to find a rusted out Avanti with a good body and interior. The GW's are pretty available.