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In my copy of "Studebaker Technical Tips" by Dick Datson, it
recommends fiberglassing the floorboards of the car to stiffen it up.
Hope it works, as that is the approach I am taking with the 53
Starliner I am in the process of building up now. I've added a Fatman
front subframe and the rear area will also get some re-enforcing for
the coil over suspension.

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exactly what it sounds like.  Get some 'glass mat, brush some POR-15
over your undoubtedly rusty floor, set the mat down (I say mat 'cause
it's easier to get to conform than cloth), brush POR-15 over it, repeat
until you're satisfied that it will set up hard enough.  I haven't had
to use this method on a floor, but I did use it to bridge some small
rust holes in C-K fenders.  Seemed to work fine.

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I think it would help, but I'd be awful concerned about getting the
epoxy stuck to the floor.  Plus if the car did flex it would tend to
delaminate everything.  There's gotta be a better way...

nate

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I have used epoxy resin and fiberglass on metal cars in the past. It
does add a lot of strength, and does not seperate from the metal.
Using epoxy resin for the base coat  and poly resin for the balance of
the fiber coats works very well. Drilling holes in the metal is not
required if using the epoxy base coat. But, in this case, I am using
POR-15 with the fiberglass mate, instead of resins. After doing many
Corvette restores in the past, it is amazing how much punishment
fiberglass will take and retain it's strength.

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Fiberglassing the floors is THE best way of making the Stude flexi cars
very quiet and SOLID.

   It transforms the tin-can car completely. 
I have done it to several of my everyday cars over the years.  
   
   My Hawk steel floors had almost vanished in ten years.  The glass
floor has lasted 25 plus, so far and will easily go for another 25.
At this date, the strong and quiet fiberglass floor has outlasted the
flexi-steel TWO to ONE. and still counting. 

   When I did the Hawk floors in 1976 or 1977, I could jack up the car
from two opposite corners until the wheels were off the ground in a
precariously balanced way.
 I could still open and close the doors on the two door hardtop GT.

   Try that with a stock steel Stude?  You can't park with one wheel on
the curb and expect the doors NOT to jam up.  I prefer a stiff and solid
car. 

   Fiberglass is also THE best way to strengthen the body braces and
reinforcements that have rusted thinner and cannot be replaced easily.

You have to do it right. I have seen a couple attempts that were
laughable.  You have to lay it down like you are building a boat. You
cannot just paint on a thin cloth and run inside for a beer. Prep it,
anchor the glass, and tuck it into all the corners and channels. repeat.  


Dave LeVesque  Sep 01
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