’63 Lark Daytona with disc brakes: used a kit from Dave Thibeault that utilized a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder from a ’67-68 Dodge Monaco/Dodge Polara/Chrysler New Yorker/Chrysler 300/Plymouth Fury with Power Brakes and front discs. Here are some various numbers for this M/C: Raybestos MC36259 NAPA UP36259 EIS E64874 SafeLine M64874 With this M/C, the adjustment of the booster push rod must be changed from the stock measurement to a new measurement of 0.900”. See the Shop Manual for the procedure on setting this measurement. A new brake line will have to be made from the M/C down to the junction block for the front brakes, and the original rear brake line disconnected from the junction block and properly plugged. The rear brakes connect to the front portion of the M/C, and will have to be tied into the existing rear brake line using the proper coupling. This would be a good time to replace all the brake lines and brake hoses if you are unsure of them. By the way, the ’64 Lark disc brake system will use the same master cylinder. ’64 Commander with manual drum brakes: used a Raybestos MC36237. This is a 1 inch bore M/C used on almost every drum brake AMC (manual and power brakes) car from ’64 thru ’76. Note that this car already had a dual master cylinder from the factory, but I chose to use an easily found replacement master cylinder versus rebuilding the original. Will the Raybestos MC36237 work on a power drum brake car? I don’t know, since I have not tried this swap. The Studebaker Chassis Parts book calls out a different part number for a manual drum brake versus a power drum brake master cylinder, but both appear to be a 1 " bore from references in aftermarket brake parts books. The difference is very possibly a different depth of the pushrod hole in the piston assembly. I cannot say for sure if this M/C will work on a power drum brake car. One thing for sure, you will most likely have to determine the required booster push rod length and adjust the booster push rod. One way to determine this might be to measure the depth of the original and replacement M/C pushrod holes, and adjust the booster push rod based on the difference. Now, a question for you. Are you sure you have the "original" master cylinder on the car? I cannot access my ’64 Salesman’s book, but am pretty sure that Cruisers (and the rest of the ’64 line except for Challengers without the SBS option) came with the Split Braking System (SBS) which used a 'dual' master cylinder. If your Cruiser has a single reservoir master cylinder on it, your car may have had some modifications. Maybe it was originally a disc brake car that was changed over to drum brakes and the master cylinder /booster not replaced with the correct drum brake items? I would recommend that you determine exactly what you have before purchasing anything. And remember, if you do not have a good knowledge of brake systems, adjustment of the master cylinder pushrods, double flare brake lines, etc, you may want to leave any changes to someone who does. The brake system is the most important system in your car from a safety standpoint. Don’t modify it unless you are sure you know what you are doing! Paul (Warta) R1Lark July 2007