the stainless trim, if it is anything like that found on the Larks,
comes off very easily provided you use the proper type of tool.  I
have found that a wide, plastic bladed putty knife works excellently
in 'popping out' the fasteners that attach the stainless trim to the
body.  The fasteners slide into a channel on the underside of the trim
that is facing the body (the part you can't see until you pop it out.)
 Take the flat bladed plastic spatula and push it between the
stainless trim and the body.  You will find that the parts of the trim
where there are no fasteners will be weaker, and you can get your
spatula behind them easily.  Now, slide the spatula down toward one of
the fasteners until it starts to feel 'tighter'.  twist the spatula
outward back toward you with a little force and the fasteners will go
'pop' and come right out of the holes in the body.  Slide down the
trim piece with your spatula repeat the aforementioned at every point
you feel the resistance between the spatula and body getting tight
(this is the location of the fastener clips) and eventually the
stainless trim piece will completely pop off the vehicle.
You really need to use a plastic bladed spatula to do this, or you run
the risk of scratching your paint if you use a metal blade.  Plastic
is harmless, but metal will cut into your paint if you overtwist when
popping out the fastener clips.
This is the way I took the trim off my 63 Daytona Lark when I went to
sand and prime it for the paint job I did on it.  While the stainless
is off, if it is dull, run it on a Dico buffer wheel (can be found at
HQ, Home Depot etc or any good auto paint shop).attached to a pedastal
grinder, with h a white buffing compound...it'll shine up like all get
out...like a mirror.
Good Luck,

Greg Scoggin
Sequoia Chapter SDC
Publicity Secretary