GT Mustang trans - C/K Cars the trans will work fine in a stude. i am hoping to have my conversion kits available by the end of the month (i have a machine shop making some of the do-dads right now) that will allow you to instal a ford T-5 trans on a stude engine with no welding. 85-86 4 cylinder turbo trans is prefered for most applications as it has a wider spaced gear set and a longer input but for high performance the 5.0 trans would probably be much better. once i have all of the parts in hand and finish the instalation instructions i will post it. i will tell you that a different front bearing support is need to make this an easy swap and my kit includes a modified steel one instead of the ford aluminum one. later, hawkrod -------------- What kind of HP and torque can the T-5 handle? --------- unfortunately not enough. i am sure an R2 would scatter one pretty quickly(i am afraid to try!). i have the specs but they are not in front of me. i want to say around 400 lbs of torque is the limit but they are actually rated at 250-350lbs of torque depending on the trans but that is a rating that is derived from a 100,000 mile duty cycle. they run the trans on an abuse machine and it has to live at a certain level for the rated period of time. that is to say it has to maintain integrity at a preset level. they don't try and see if it will last at a higher level as that is not what they are being asked for. i have run the 250 pound trans in my full flow 289 car with sticky 225-50-16 tires (nate would appreciate them as they are nice yokohama's) for 6 months or so and i will be the first to tell you i do not treat it well but it has worked well for me. the 5.0 trans is stronger or even one of the motorsport trans but if i was kicking that much power i would not be looking at a stick O/D. i use the lighter trans because it has a better gear combo (lower 1st gear). all of the world class trans are pretty much made of the same metals but the turbo trans are rated lower because of the torque multiplication resulting from the lower gear ratios (which makes it better for driving a full bodied car as well!). hope this helps, hawkrod -------------------- Any BW Super T 10/Muncie/Richmond(4 or 5 speed) would meet a 400 +Lb requirement.The T10 can be had with a 2:88 first gear, wide ratio that would work with a reasonable rear end street gearing. There is a company in St Peters, PA (Hanlon - they are on the internet) that modifies Tremec 3550, TKO, & TKO II for use behind a Chevy. In Hot Rod(Sept 2001) they put a TKO behind a 455 pontiac in a Tempest. Shifting would be crisper than an external shifted trans, OD is .68 on 3550 & TKO, .83 on a TKO II. Also the Tremecs appear to be capable of having the shifter moved forward ( toward the engine compartment) This eliminates the shifter being so far back it exits in the seats. Figure about $2,000 for a new trans modified for use in a GM. Durability is a function of use (abuse) and weight of the car -the old Muncies/T-10/Richmonds were used in cars over 4,000 lbs with BIG engines & held up. 6 Speeds would also work, but their size appears to be a problem, they are huge. I am leaning toward using the Tremec in my Lark (350 Chev) --------------- found my chart. the trans are as follows but there are some missing; production 4 cylinder turbo 250 lbs 85-89 V8 & 95-97 V6 265 lbs 90-95 V8 300 lbs 93-95 cobra 310 lbs motorsport fms-m7003-a 305 lbs fms-m7003-x 325 lbs fms-m7003-z 330 lbs fms-m7003-r58 350 lbs (this is a tremec trans) keep in mind that the input length on the early V8 trans is 7.18 the 4 cyl is 7.41 and the 94 and newer V8 is 7.85. the 7.85 length would be great but the 7.41 enters the crank sufficiently than an extension is not required. the 7.18 will require a pilot bearing extension as it does not enter the crank far enough to be properly supported. the stock stude input is about 7.75 but the pilot stick well through the bushing. this info is taken directly from ford literature and is probably reasonably correct. hawkrod the trans will work fine in a stude. i am hoping to have my conversion kits available by the end of the month (i have a machine shop making some of the do-dads right now) that will allow you to instal a ford T-5 trans on a stude engine with no welding. 85-86 4 cylinder turbo trans is prefered for most applications as it has a wider spaced gear set and a longer input but for high performance the 5.0 trans would probably be much better. once i have all of the parts in hand and finish the instalation instructions i will post it. i will tell you that a different front bearing support is need to make this an easy swap and my kit includes a modified steel one instead of the ford aluminum one. later, hawkrod ------T-56 I have a T-56 Tremec (Chevy) from a Firebird. I have modified a close ratio bell housing (Chevy wide pattern) to work with it. The 6 spd is a bit longer than the T-5 5spd so I will have to fabricate a driveshaft. I have a T-5 5-spd World class in my brother's 64 R2 Avanti. The T-56 is not a big deal to put in. The only advantage of using it is if you are going to do a lot of long distance driving since 5th and 6th are overdrive gears. Nimesh Jan 2004 =============== Jan 2005 Iv'e got a 61 hawk I'm doing the swap on right now. this is what have done. the t - 5 new world tranny is what i'm using out of a late model camaro. I'ts 2" longer than the t-10 it also has a 26 spline shaft. so you'll need to have your drive shaft modified, the shifter is also centered over the tranny so I'm going to use a b&m shifter than fabricate the offset so that it all hides under the boot.its about a 2"forward & 2"towards thedriver difference the bell housing is rare. you'll need a chevy to stude bell housing I know someone who has 7 of them. it'll have to be bored slightly as the mounting flange of the t-5 is slightly larger. also the input shaft is to short so you'll have to make a adapter bushing for the back of the fly wheel I have the drawings, I'm also building one now if you want one. a 26 spline 11" clutch will work. you can use the same throw out bearing arrangement and the same style pressure plate. now the only thing left is your speedo cable. two ways to go on this. choose an older t-5 with a mechanical output gear or get a impulse to cable converter box.the latter is much more accurate as the cable is only a couple of feet long.you'll then have to take it to a speedo shop to get it all calibrated.I went ahead & put 373 gears in my rear end to make the transmission gear ratio work out a bit better also the gear set is a bit rare you can find them about anywhere for a dana 44 the input shaft on a stude is 10 spline not 26 like everyone else.if your going to this much trouble make sure you have a good transmission. THE MOST CRUCIAL THING IS TO MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE BELL HOUSING ALIGNED TO THE FLY WHEEL .THIS WILL SURELY RUIN YOUR TRANNY QUICKLY IF YOU DON'T any good machine shop should be able to do this.all in all I'll bet I'm into this swap for at least 3,000.00 by the time I'm done well worth it, when you put your foot into at 55 & climb to cruising altitude swiftly. good luck -------------------- Jan 2005 - 5 speed For those of you keeping up with this post, I found out some interesting stuff today that some of you may be able to use. While I was searching for a clutch, I called Medatronics Corp (see www.5speeds.com) and talked to Paul. As it turns out I have a later world class T5. Paul said that most S10 T5s with the electroic speedo hook-up are world class. The speedo is not a problem because the mechanical stuff can be used on this tranny also if needed, at least if what I have read is true. Well, Paul had a 10 1/2" clutch on the shelf and could have a 10" made in a few days. So I found a clutch, but it gets better. I asked the question about using a Jeep or Ford input shaft in my trans so that the Stude clutch could be used? He had me count the teeth on the input shaft, which was 21. He has a direct drop in input shaft for a Jeep that is 1/2" longer than the Chevy shaft and has a 1 1/8"shaft with 10 teeth! The added length is a bonus because I was going to have to extend the chevy one anyway. I still may have to do some tweaking with the length, but I can take care of that with a piltot bushing. And according to Paul I can take the front bearing retainer off, which I already had done to get it turned down to fit the Stude pilot, and slide the old shaft out and the new one back in without tearing the tranny apart! The icing on the cake is that the new shaft was in stock and is $85 while the custom clutch was going to be $97.50 and would take a few days. In the end, if this works dad can use his new Stude clutch that he had already purchased. Hopefully my bubble won't burst before this is complete! Thanks for your help, Dwayne ------------ Thought I would catch everyone uo on the swap! The jeep input shaft worked great. We machined 3/4" from the length of the bearing retainer that was covering some of the input shaft splines. I took a chevy pilot bushing and machined the od down to the stude size, leaving about 1/8" larger to stop the bushing at the crank and give us just a bit more bushing length. But the jeep shaft was only 1/4" shorter than the stude shaft. Everything went together with no problems! I used the short chevy throw out bearing and 6cyl retaining spring per Jessie's instructions without a problem. We found an old driveshaft in the shop that we had to shorten a little to work. So far we have less than $400 ($391) in this swap! And the only thing left to do is buy a shifter knob! Can't wait to drive it... Thanks, Dwayn