The lock up torque convertor must have the convertor clutch engaged when
going any appreciable distance in top gear.  Unless of course you have
either a very low low geared rear end (3.54 and up)or very large oil cooler.  

    Aftermarket companies sell non-locking convertors, but don't buy one
for street.

    You can gain control of the convertor clutch by a simple switch, if
you like.  You need to buy a trans manual and identify the fourth gear
oil pressure switch on the valve body inside the oil pan.

   You need a "normally open"  non- grounding switch there, if there is
a NC or "normally closed" switch, or a pipe plug with no switch, then
change it.  DO NOT USE a grounding switch (one terminal) YOU MUST USE A
NON-GROUNDING switch (two terminal)  Most of these trannys have several
of these pressure switches on the valve body.  If you do not have a car
computor that needs to know when the car is in second or third or?? ,
then move the switch that you need to the fourth gear spot. You can use
that switch to energize the convertor clutch solenoid whenever you hit
fourth gear.  

    You need to identify the convertor clutch valve solenoid.  Run that
wire to the plug-in on the case. 

    Run the two 4th gear pressure switch wires to  the same plug-in
connector on the case.  ONE of the two 4th gear wires will go to the
SAME terminal as the solenoid wire.  The other wire gets a terminal of
its own.  

  You can install a dash on-off switch with 12V power from the acc. or
ign switch.  If you run that switched power wire to your 4th gear
pressure switch  terminal on the trans you will have control to lock the
convertor clutch in fourth, but it automatically unlocks in the lower
gears if you forget, or if you want it to be "automatic".  If you hook
the dash switch to the solenoid terminal you will have ABSOLUTE control
over the lockup including the lower gears, but DON'T forget to unlock it
at the right time or you're n trouble!  I recommend routing it through
the 4th pressure switch to be safe from mistakes.

   If B&M tells you their controller works with your 200 4R grab that
controller.  A friend of mine (a trans shop owner) has a 700 R4 in a 454
pickup with a B&M controller.  His acts exactly like a FIVE speed.  In
fourth at his chosen speed, the convertor locks in, the tach drops
400-500 RPM and it feels exactly like a fifth gear just kiced in.   

  I recommend doing the above to a 700 R4 and getting rid of that weaker
200-4R.  The 200 4R was used for V6's and costs just as much to rebuild
as a genuine 700 R4.  

   Your 200 4R is the same length as a TH 350 and the manual 4 speeds.
The 700 R4 is the same length as a TH 400 so you will need a slightly
shorter driveshaft if you switch.

  If you stay with rebuilding the 200 4R, you MUST put in a shift kit.
It will double the life of your clutches.  Those soft "invisible" GM
shifts are slipping the clutches way too much.  When you must decide
which setting in the shift kit,  choose the "RV" setting and NOT the
street rod setting.  The street rod setting is too harsh, the "RV"
setting is just perfect for softer shifts without slipping clutches.

    Good Luck

DavidLeVesque   DJLevesque@webtv.net (David Levesque)
=========================================================


 If the 200R4 is designed like the 700R4, then the lockup control inside =
the trans is a small solenoid. (don't know if it should cost $159) and =
what looks like a brake light switch screwed into the 3rd gear oil gallery =
behind the trans filter.  An easy way to keep the lockup function and =
avoid all the brake light circuit / vacuum switch hassle of the usual =
circuit is to move the internal trans switch to the 4th gear oil gallery =
and get the power from a 2amp fused +12 volt line.  The trans will then =
only lockup in 4th gear and drop right  out as soon as you slow down.  I'd =
check on the replacement cost of the solenoid and switch before investing =
in the time and effort to change out the torque converter

  / Bob Johnstone=20
----------------------------
When I installed a 700-R4 behind the Studebaker V-8 in our GT Hawk
in mid-1993, I didn't have the time to install an automatic lock-up
assembly for the torque converter, so I wired it to lock up manually
by activating a normally open (NO) single-pole, single-throw (SPST)
toggle switch.  In 50,000 miles of driving it, I have had no difficulty
with it at all and it cost all of $5.00 in parts.  Its only problem
is that the driver must activate the torque converter's lock-up feature
manually.  Should the driver forget to unlock the converter, starting
from a stop elicits harsh and very early upshifts.  Annoying, but not
critical from what I can tell.

With my engine's design and the 3.31:1 rear gears, I generally don't
lock the converter up until fourth gear and 60 MPH.  Around town, I 
leave it unlocked.

I'll probably do the same thing with the trans to be installed behind
my twin-turbo Avanti engine when it's time for it to be installed.

Chris Altenburg
--------------------------