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Thread: Coil springs in a 1960 Lark

  1. #1
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    Coil springs in a 1960 Lark

    Hello -

    I've searched around and haven't found this particular answer: When replacing the coil springs on a 1960 Lark, are these easily replaced with some 'generic' fit, are they very specific to Studebaker only, or do they match up with other car makers?

    Thanks,
    1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
    1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

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    MOOG CC-655

    Search the forum and you will find many posts regarding these springs. I have them in a 59 Lark and used them with a six and will be installing a V8 and will keep the same springs.

    The MOOG CC-655 can be found at many parts stores and can cost from between $50 to $100 a pair. They are a replacement HD progressive rate for the rear of a Buick LeSabre.

    Len.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skybolt View Post
    MOOG CC-655

    Search the forum and you will find many posts regarding these springs. I have them in a 59 Lark and used them with a six and will be installing a V8 and will keep the same springs.

    The MOOG CC-655 can be found at many parts stores and can cost from between $50 to $100 a pair. They are a replacement HD progressive rate for the rear of a Buick LeSabre.

    Len.
    Thanks for the help!!
    1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
    1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

  4. #4
    ....V8 ??

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    The reason you are being asked if you have a V8, is that these springs will much more closely match the rate of the correct V8 Springs, not so much the 6 cyl. ones.

    The correct replacement Studebaker springs are available for most Post-War models at Studebaker Vendors.

    https://studebakervendors.com
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    The reason you are being asked if you have a V8, is that these springs will much more closely match the rate of the correct V8 Springs, not so much the 6 cyl. ones.

    The correct replacement Studebaker springs are available for most Post-War models at Studebaker Vendors.

    https://studebakervendors.com
    I would have to see the real difference for the sixes. If you look at my car, 1959 Lark 170 six, during the purchase the photos show original front coil height. This car had done 29,700 miles at the time of photos.

    https://plus.google.com/photos/11667...05435250958898

    I added an OHV six with OD trans and had trouble with the extra few pounds, as the tires were a lot wider. After adding the Moog springs it sat at the original Flathead six cylinder height and because of the better spring rate it didn't give me any trouble with tire rub.

    Once I put the V8 in I might have to get narrower tires.

    Len.

  7. #7
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Len, that must be because you have aftermarket WHEELS or way oversize Tires on it?
    With the New OHV Engine the tires were wider WHY? They got flattened by the weight?

  8. #8
    Here is my "2-cents".
    I had some coil springs from my Grandmother's 64 Daytona HT. I was restoring my 60 Lark, converting it to a V8 with supercharger (I used her engine as the full-flow rebuild starting point, but don't tell her).
    I thought the springs would work great too. My reasoning was because the 64-66 dog-house is so much longer & heavier than a stubby 59-60.

    Well I was disappointed, the old springs (48k miles) still caused the Lark front to sag. Then I read the article earlier this year in Turning Wheels, talking about the MOOG CC655 springs.
    Ordered a set from Jegs online. Nice price & great springs. Installed them & the front end came up an inch or so. Excellent ride quality. Progressive spring rate really works.

    So now I have another pair for my 64 Daytona, once I get around to its restoration.

    The attachments show the ride height on the 64, prior to disassembly & the "old" 64 springs as they appeared on the 60 Lark.
    After installing the Moog springs, the nose of the Lark now sets about an inch higher. Ride quality is much improved.

    Ken Jones
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Stude-Preferred; 08-29-2014 at 10:38 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackb View Post
    ....V8 ??
    Yes - it is a V8.


    Thanks all....I'll plan on the MOOG springs moving forward.
    1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
    1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

  10. #10
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    I am pretty sure, once you try the MOOGs you will never look back at OEM. I put the first pair in a GT, and was so impressed I put another pair in the 56J, then another pair in our second GT. Now, all three of our Studes have them. The progressive rate eats up the small bumps, yet firms up quickly on larger bumps to avoid bottoming out.

    Wish I'd had them in the 56J years ago when living in the California desert. Until the MOOGs, I preferred 526125-HD springs in 56Js, but pushed them past their limit a few times. I recall the front gravel shield kissing the pavement once when zooming down a 2 lane desert road in the middle of no where, and hitting a couple of dips I didn't see coming. Of course I am sure I was not exceeding the posted speed limit

    One more thing: if your Lark has the wimpy, 6-cylinder type, 5/8" front anti-sway bar, swap it out with a 63-66 V8 bar and mount setup. It will make a world of difference.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    Len, that must be because you have aftermarket WHEELS or way oversize Tires on it?
    With the New OHV Engine the tires were wider WHY? They got flattened by the weight?
    The original tires were fine with the original springs. After I purchased the car and added disc brakes the wheels would not fit so I installed some Centerline wheel and 235/60 x 15 tires. These were fine for a while but I had to add some sway bars so the tires did not scrub on dips and turns. After I added the OHV engine and OD trans I had problems again with the tires hitting the fender on dips while turning. Like going into driveways etc... After doing some research and calculations I added the Moog springs, this was before the Turning Wheels article came out about them, but was glad to see my research was validated.

    Here is the car after paint but no engine or trans. All work listed below has been done except the engine install.

    https://plus.google.com/photos/11667...05435250958898

    The wheels and tires may be considered "way oversize' by some but they look good and once I set the car up well I have engineered out any problems.

    The car as it sits, awaiting it's new V8 engine, has Moog CC655 coils, Camaro compatible gas shocks up front, an extra leaf added to the rear spring pack, Plymouth Fury police compatible shocks at the rear, Delrin bushings for the front control arms and for the rear spring eyes, 1987 Pontiac Firebird Trans AM WS6 front (36mm, 1 1/4") and rear (24mm, 15/16") sway bars with custom front brackets and the rear sway bar trailing arms bent to fit, all with urethane bushings. To say this car sits flat through corners is an understatement. It has a slight lean to know you have changed from going straight but thats about it. It could just be centrifugal force moving me sideways more than body roll.

    No tire rub front or rear even though they are "way oversize".

    Len.

  12. #12
    Speedster Member Bradford's Avatar
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    What are the specs on the rear wheels and tires on that 60 lark!?

    Quote Originally Posted by stude-preferred View Post
    here is my "2-cents".
    I had some coil springs from my grandmother's 64 daytona ht. I was restoring my 60 lark, converting it to a v8 with supercharger (i used her engine as the full-flow rebuild starting point, but don't tell her).
    I thought the springs would work great too. My reasoning was because the 64-66 dog-house is so much longer & heavier than a stubby 59-60.

    Well i was disappointed, the old springs (48k miles) still caused the lark front to sag. Then i read the article earlier this year in turning wheels, talking about the moog cc655 springs.
    Ordered a set from jegs online. Nice price & great springs. Installed them & the front end came up an inch or so. Excellent ride quality. Progressive spring rate really works.

    So now i have another pair for my 64 daytona, once i get around to its restoration.

    The attachments show the ride height on the 64, prior to disassembly & the "old" 64 springs as they appeared on the 60 lark.
    After installing the moog springs, the nose of the lark now sets about an inch higher. Ride quality is much improved.

    Ken jones

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Skybolt View Post
    MOOG CC-655

    Search the forum and you will find many posts regarding these springs. I have them in a 59 Lark and used them with a six and will be installing a V8 and will keep the same springs.

    The MOOG CC-655 can be found at many parts stores and can cost from between $50 to $100 a pair. They are a replacement HD progressive rate for the rear of a Buick LeSabre.

    Len.
    Do these fit earlier cars? I've got a 53C - do those work?
    -------------------
    Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

  14. #14
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    I have no idea but others that have those cars should be able to tell you their results. I have read them in a 56J car, so at least that far back will work.

    https://www.1956goldenhawk.com/newslpdf/56jon071.pdf

    Joe Hall: "I'd also recommend installing a 3/16" spacer in the
    drivers' side of 56Js, to compensate for the weight
    differential, per standard Stude procedure, especially for
    56Js with power steering."

    Len
    Last edited by Skybolt; 09-05-2015 at 12:15 PM.

  15. #15
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    Ernie, They fit a 53 just fine. Jeggs is the best and they are $79 + shipping.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan View Post
    Ernie, They fit a 53 just fine. Jeggs is the best and they are $79 + shipping.
    https://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...ar/309586_0_0/

    $45 from Autozone.

  17. #17
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    I like your price better Len. Will have to check out and see if Duralast is as good as Moog.

  18. #18
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    Len, I hit print screen and took it to the Auto Zone near me. Guy totaled everything up and said that will be $123. I said how did it go from $45 to $123 and the guy said that $45 was each, for a total of $90 plus 9.5% tax + shipping. If I wanted it shipped to the store and pick it up there it would be a few bucks cheaper.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Skybolt View Post
    I tried to order those from AutoZone. They entered the order 3 times, and 3 times it was canceled after a week or so. The manager finally gave up and refunded my money after messing around with it for a month. I think it's a glitch in their computer, especially since they're half what everyone else charges.

    I ordered them from Amazon and had them in 3 days.
    ?Wanted: Power Steering Parts for a 60 Lark.

  20. #20
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    Sorry to hear that Autozone does not work for everyone. I actually bought mine on eBay for even less but went to my local Autozone and they had them in the warehouse. A few weeks later they were out of stock. Then back again

    The price of the springs is for a pair. It could be easier to order them online and get them delivered to the store.

    I don't own the company so I have no reason but the price quoted to direct people there.

    I will try it myself today, if I ever get there, and see what they say.

    Len

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