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The reason a disc/drum master won't work on disc/disc is because the master cylinder bore sizes are different 'within' a disc/drum master.
A disc/disc master has the same bore size for both the front and the rear. Pay attention to the bore size on the master, as it will affect your foot pressure required. Eldo/Toronado/Riviera rear calipers work well, but watch how they mount on your caliper brackets. A lot of them get mounted to get a good parking brake cable alignment, but thet gets you a real bad bleeder screw position. That usually means you have you have to remove and clamp the caliper piston to bleed the brakes (initially). Their comment about parking brake adjustment affecting normal brake application is true. That style caliper had a six sided hex bolt type caliper piston adjusting screw on it. You load up your caliper/rotor setup and bleed your brakes. Then you crank the parking brake lever as far as it will go (until the pads hit the rotor) (I did this by hand before installing the parking brake cable(s). If you are far enough along in rotation before the pads contact the rotor, you remove the parking brake lever and put it on the next hex (60 degree's). If you don't do this, then in normal use the caliper piston retracts quite a bit. This means that you lose pedal stroke just getting the pad pushed to the piston. It really isn't a big deal, and it shouldn't chase you off that style caliper. Once you adjust it the first time, you only adjust it for pad wear... And it takes a LOT of pad wear to get the parking brake lever to move 60 degree's. I am running this basic setup on the yellow truck, and it works great. (Except I am running a hydroboost power brake setup) Hang in there... You'll get it sorted out.
BTW... I am not running an adjustable proportioning valve, but am running a stock GM proportioning/distribution block (off an Eldo/Riviera/Toronado. |