Your easiest method would be to contact "TURNER BRAKES" with info on your car (model, year, auto/stick) and any questions you have (do a search or note Turner's ad near the back page of the T.W. monthly magazine, you may also find additional ads there). Turner has been catering to the Stude' brake scene for many years - very service oriented.
paultk

Don - I have used Jim's brakes on all my Studes over the years and in every case, converted drum to discs along with the dual M/C. (I may have more hills than you, further south) A few trouser-chili moments with brake fade coming down a hill in OD convinced me to go with discs. The only change beyond Jim's instructions that has helped me has been to add to the bracket that holds the M/C to the frame, bolstering the strength and not allowing for any flex. It's made a big difference in braking for me. The quality of Jim's stuff is superb, IMHO.

I too, recommend Turner brakes. Just be prepared that it may not be exactly bolt in. On my Lark I had to elongate the holes on the bracket so the MC would clear the floor. Jim was available by phone for advice etc.

I made the switch on my P. Hawk earlier this summer. Save yourself a lot of headaches/trouble and replace all your brake lines while you are at. Make sure to do the flex lines too.

I order the M/C that Jim Turner recommends on his site, Raybestos MC36237. Depending on where you get it from, it may come with a tall lid, mine did. I was still able to use it but it's a tight fit.

After trial fitting it a few times I decided to mount the M/C on the Turner bracket first, before installing it on the car. This made the install easier on my car, your situation maybe different.

I also used a remote reservoir so I didn't have to worry about taking the lid off.
Once I sorted out the issues I had with the old lines, I was able to get the setup to work quite well.

I retained drums at all corners

At the risk of stepping on toes, I use a 91 F150 master cylinder. The one listed, MC36237 is nearly as obsolete as the original Studebaker master. The Ford master cylinder is slightly longer, but is perfect for a remote fill as the reservoir is not built in. It is the same bolt pattern as the AMC master cylinder, and comes with a residual check valve for the rear brakes.

If you take the reservoir that comes with it, and cut away all but the bottom surface, the part that inserts into the rubber boot on the master cylinder, and tap for a 1/2" pipe thread, using a 1/2" by 1/8" pipe adapter screwed in with Teflon sealer on it you can adapt that to any hose you like. I use3/8" nylon truck brake hose and fittings.

I have done this on several cars using dial circuit brake with the master under the floor.

"The one listed, MC36237 is nearly as obsolete as the original Studebaker master."

Where did you get this info? I order 10-12 at a time and have NO problems getting them! My cost has gone up, but still plentiful!

In fact, just received another batch 2 days ago.

Jim

Thanks all for the input.

Random thoughts:

The Studebaker braking system is 60-70 years old, so replacing with all new is always a good idea.

The dual master cylinder was mandated because the vast majority of owners never service their braking system until something fails. With the dual master system, a failure in one area of the hydraulic system still retains some braking capability in the other half. If owners flushed their brake fluid every 3-5 years, the single system would have been sufficient.

We're a three-generation Studebaker family. When they were new '40s-'50s trucks, my grandfather drove them. When they just old used cars and trucks, my father and I drove them. Even in the wettest area of the continental US, we never had any braking problems, never had a brake system failure. The single master cylinder served us well. Your results may vary.

jack vines, who has a dual master cylinder on his '63 Avanti, but a single cylinder on his custom E12.

P.S. - Our daily driver is a 2017 Chevrolet Bolt electric car. The only scheduled maintenance on it is a brake fluid flush every five years. We just had it done yesterday at a cost of $175. I could have done it myself, but my wife also wanted to look at new cars.

jv

At any dealership they'll grab your wallet and say "cough". :-)

Good advice on replacing steel lines and the three flex hoses while you're also replacing the M/C. Don't forget to check for leaks at unions. More important for our cars & trucks to stop than to go.