////My passenger's window was painfully slow when I got my car, struggling to make the last inch up. //////70970
Try adding an 1/8" shim behind the upper rear mounting bolt for the rear channel/track. /////Passenger door on my 1963 Avanti rattles internally and consistently (except when the window is all the way up) //// The rear vertical channel has a bolt at the top, and the bottom. The bottom on has an angle braclet that is slotted for adjusting the track angle. The top one relys on shims for an in-out adjustment. Many (most) times they are messed with someone takes the bolt out and the shim(s) drop to the bottom of the door. Usually a good 1/8 is required to properly adjust the top of the run channel. Also the outer weather seal resides in a piece of stainless trim. In the back edge of the trim, under the rubber, is a screw that holds it to the door. If that screw is loose or missing the stainless will rattle, and also it may catch the window frame while trying to lower the window. ///// I want to replace the window felts on my 71 Avanti II.... how do I get the windows out.///// 89869
If someone in the past glued the rubber outer sweep into the stainless retainer, then yes, it would be easier if you remove the stainless retainer also. You however do not have to completely remove the glass. Take off the door panel and remove the lower glass stop. Remove the clips holding the nylon rollers to the glass channel, and slide the regulator pins from the lower glass channel. Then the glass can drop to the bottom of the door, and you can the have room to pry out the clips and the stainless. You do have to remove a few inches of the rubber towards the back of the channel because there is a screw hiding under the rubber that holds the stainless trim to the fiberglass door. /////I'm installing OEM manual window regulators in an Avanti fiberglass door and need help. Should the bolts (or machine screws?) have special heads to spread out the load? Do slotted holes need different bolt/washers? Are special lock washers needed? Should I use Locktite? On the back side of the reinforced, threaded plates, do I also need nuts? How should the window crank mounting plate be positioned in the (rear) slotted holes? How should the 2 guide track bolts be located in their slotted holes? And finally, how long are the bolts?////(99637)
They are hex bolts. There should be large hexagonal shaped lock washers that spread out the load. You can use a flat washer, and a star lock washer. The only slotted holes should be the rear window track, and the short horizontol track. Those are used to adjust the tilt of the glass. Top adjusts the window back up, and down tilts it down. You may have to shim the top of the long rear track between the tab and the inside of the door to center the glass away from the rubber outer sweep when the glass is all the way up. Make sure there is a screw in the outer sweep rubber retainer stainless, or the stainless window frame may grab it as you try to put the window down. No speed nuts needed, unless the swedged in nuts re missing on th regulator. Make sure the three bolts into the enter pivot are the correct ones, as the thread is finer. They must be very, very short so they don't protrude past the bracket, and hit the regulator arms that pass very close. You won't need Locktite. /////Is the widow regulator used on Avanti 1963 -1975 the same ? can you interchange ?? can you go from power to manual ?//////95072
NuRelics, makes an Avanti power regulator, that is NOT listed in their catalog. They are not like the stock regulators. I have installed a couple of sets for customers. Not a simple bolt in job, as some inner door fiberglass needs to be trimmed. Also they have no helper springs, so they are still s-l-o-w. I have used later 80's Avanti regulators, and used better springs, and have been happy with the results. The advantage over earlier regulators, is a simple two wire motor, that is available anywhere for less than 60 bucks., plus they have more torque. I also modify the regulators to use a second helper spring added to where they are located on manual regulators, as well as the one located near the main gear pivot, on the electric ones. Also, The doors usually need to be reinforced, or repaired where the center sissor pivot is located, as the door is often broken there due to stress from the regulator. ///Has anyone purchased the power widow kit ////95312
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This is a pic of the K body regulators. I have the Avanti ones in my shop, and also have installed them. This is not them. Yes, this is from Nu Relics. They don't list the Avanti, but rest assured the DO have them. You need the FORD window switches to look close to the original Avanti switches. An additional 180 over the basic $435 regulator price.
Price is for the pair, two wire motor. You must state for Avanti when ordering as the listing for Studebaker only states for 53-64, which will get you the Hawk type by default. A word of caution.... the only mounting point for the regulator for Avantis is the three bolt center pivot ara that is the weakest part of the door. It is usually broken or cracked to begin with. The inner structure of the door has to be trimmed to clear the motor, and it (the motor) hangs too freely, and has no support. I always have to add a spacer, and a long support bolt , which is not mentioned anywhere in the limited instructions. The new regulators have no helper springs, and the action is quite slow after all is said and done. IMHO the best solution is to use the original regulators, with a second helper spring located where manual regulators have them. Replace the original Bosch motors with new complete motors and gears from an 89 Jeep Commanche. Get the new switches, and two wire harness from Ne Relics, and you will be golden. I have done this, and it works. No Chicom repop motors for 300 bucks anymore. No 5 wire crap to snake through the door openings.