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Thread: How I fixed my broken clutch bell crank and "support bracket" : 1963 Avanti

  1. #1
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    How I fixed my broken clutch bell crank and "support bracket" : 1963 Avanti

    This applies to Larks too ... and I think even the trucks and Hawks have a very similar
    part. The stamped shell broke and allowed the pivot bolted in the "D" shape hole to
    move about, rubbing the outer area and created noise and extra operation effort. The
    plan was to make it stronger, and welding is a temp fix. Here was what I was faced
    with when I took it apart :





    The bell crank lower hole was ob-longed and making for lots of play in the pedal assembly.





    I ground off the rivets and made a template of the hole pattern to make a new piece and
    space some thicker steel material away from the flex metal to position the pivot. I think it
    came out pretty nice, most of it was hand done with a hole saw, files and belt sander.





















    The Bell crank I had the holes drilled out to an interference fit for the following bushing I
    got from McMaster Carr. After the bell crank was heated, and the bushing frozen, I put
    them together and filed the surface smooth (they stick out). The flange was filed down
    to make it thinner as to not bind the pieces. It was trial and error. I thought I took some
    pictures of the finished part, but I didnt. Here is the bushing info :

    "SAE 863 bronze material, which is "also called Super Oilite®, this material is similar to SAE 841 but contains more iron for greater strength. It is also impregnated with oil that meets USDA H-1."

    2938T36 SAE 863 FLANGED-SLEEVE BEARING, FOR 3/8" SHAFT DIA,1/2"OD X 1/2"L X 5/8"FLANGE OD

    Tom
    \'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13\" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17\" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, \'R3\' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

  2. #2
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    The painted part next to mine is a spare that Ted Harbit so graciously sent me to help
    get my car back on the road in time for a car show. I used it for comparison, to see a
    factory part compared to my mod. Ted, let me know by PM if you need it back, or if I
    should send it along to someone else who you know needs it.

    Tom

  3. #3
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    Lucky for us Studebaker made buckets of those 'swivels' and they wear so fast. I keep a tray of them on my workbench. (the square piece with the hole in one end and a nub on the other end). As for the 'rod' You can fab one or get one from a parts car or spare shifter parts.

    On SOME Avanti II's , you have to cut the end off and re-drill for the cotter pin.

  4. #4
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    I am currently using the swivel and rod that Ted sent me, its on my list to order a
    new swivel (or two) and make a new rod. The swivel goes into the clutch bellcrank
    which is a hardened part, I was going to add an Oil-lite bushing there too, but the
    guy doing the machine work smoked a bit trying to drill it! So I opted to just leave
    the swivel as the wear point.

    Tom

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