This applies to Larks too ... and I think even the trucks and Hawks have a very similar
part. The stamped shell broke and allowed the pivot bolted in the "D" shape hole to
move about, rubbing the outer area and created noise and extra operation effort. The
plan was to make it stronger, and welding is a temp fix. Here was what I was faced
with when I took it apart :
The bell crank lower hole was ob-longed and making for lots of play in the pedal assembly.
I ground off the rivets and made a template of the hole pattern to make a new piece and
space some thicker steel material away from the flex metal to position the pivot. I think it
came out pretty nice, most of it was hand done with a hole saw, files and belt sander.
The Bell crank I had the holes drilled out to an interference fit for the following bushing I
got from McMaster Carr. After the bell crank was heated, and the bushing frozen, I put
them together and filed the surface smooth (they stick out). The flange was filed down
to make it thinner as to not bind the pieces. It was trial and error. I thought I took some
pictures of the finished part, but I didnt. Here is the bushing info :
"SAE 863 bronze material, which is "also called Super Oilite®, this material is similar to SAE 841 but contains more iron for greater strength. It is also impregnated with oil that meets USDA H-1."
2938T36 SAE 863 FLANGED-SLEEVE BEARING, FOR 3/8" SHAFT DIA,1/2"OD X 1/2"L X 5/8"FLANGE OD
Tom