Thread: 1962 Lark master cylinder and possible booster questions

OK: since my present single reservoir drum brake MC is DOA; what disc unit can I install into its stead so I can safely move the car? Weird question I realize but I plan to go with the Turner disc brake swap as soon as I get some more $$$. Needless to say: def a dual reservoir unit so I'm aware of modiflying brake hard lines which is no deal for me (I have all of the flaring tools plus I do this sort of work for a living).

And if I were to go with a booster either 'now' or later; which one and would I need to change the brake pedal?

Originally Posted by 52 Ragtop

On the 62 Daytona that I have since sold, I used a 68 Mustang M/C, of course, it was also disc brake equipped! <G>
The reason "I" used the 68 Mustang is because the ports pointed away from the engine, thus giving more room to remove the valve cover (if ever needed) I did not use a booster, as the car stopped just fine with out.
The trick on the M/C is: you MUST adjust the rod between the M/C and the pedal. They are a fixed unit from the factory. I cut the end off to make it square, then drilled and tapped a 10/32 hole in the end about 3/4" deep. Then I used a 10/32 button head allen and once I had the adjustment where I wanted it, I put a drop of loctite on it.

The threads for the 3/16" line are 1/2-20 threads, and I have those correct fittings for the 3/16" line in stock.

Jim

Jim; any chance I could use a 1970's 4 bolt Mopar manual brake MC instead or; for that matter, a same vintage Mustang II/Maverick/Granada unit? Why I wonder is I thought that all 1968 disc brake Fords including Mustangs used power assist hence different line pressures vs. pedal pressure/travel.

Originally Posted by 1962larksedan

Jim; any chance I could use a 1970's 4 bolt Mopar manual brake MC instead or; for that matter, a same vintage Mustang II/Maverick/Granada unit? Why I wonder is I thought that all 1968 disc brake Fords including Mustangs used power assist hence different line pressures vs. pedal pressure/travel.

https://www.studebakerparts.com/stude...s/dskdual.html

I'm going to try Chuck's directions so at least I can safely drive the car around the shop as I fix other things. Then when I have a few more dollars I plan to use Jim's kit.

Originally Posted by 52 Ragtop

On the 62 Daytona that I have since sold, I used a 68 Mustang M/C, of course, it was also disc brake equipped! <G>
The reason "I" used the 68 Mustang is because the ports pointed away from the engine, thus giving more room to remove the valve cover (if ever needed) I did not use a booster, as the car stopped just fine with out.
The trick on the M/C is: you MUST adjust the rod between the M/C and the pedal. They are a fixed unit from the factory. I cut the end off to make it square, then drilled and tapped a 10/32 hole in the end about 3/4" deep. Then I used a 10/32 button head allen and once I had the adjustment where I wanted it, I put a drop of loctite on it.

The threads for the 3/16" line are 1/2-20 threads, and I have those correct fittings for the 3/16" line in stock.

Jim

Originally Posted by 1962larksedan

Jim; any chance I could use a 1970's 4 bolt Mopar manual brake MC instead or; for that matter, a same vintage Mustang II/Maverick/Granada unit? Why I wonder is I thought that all 1968 disc brake Fords including Mustangs used power assist hence different line pressures vs. pedal pressure/travel.

Originally Posted by 1962larksedan

https://www.studebakerparts.com/stude...s/dskdual.html

I'm going to try Chuck's directions so at least I can safely drive the car around the shop as I fix other things. Then when I have a few more dollars I plan to use Jim's kit.

Did some digging around @ the local auto parts places and; come to find out, not only are the Granada/Mustang II and small Mopar manual brake master cylinders thin of the ground (special order only AND $$$); I'm going to follow Jim's recommendations and ordered up a 1968 Mustang disc brake unit, they are readily available locally. Besides: $40 vs. twice as much for the others helped 'influence' my decision.

Bought a 1968 Mustang disc brake master cylinder and a 5' piece of brake line, plumbed everything together and shortened the pedal push road 1/4" to allow the MC piston to return to rest position. I still need to finish bleeding the system and install a proper plug on the junction block since the rear brake line has been split and rerouted. And I have to do something for a brake light switch. Keeping everyone posted

Originally Posted by 1962larksedan

Bought a 1968 Mustang disc brake master cylinder and a 5' piece of brake line, plumbed everything together and shortened the pedal push road 1/4" to allow the MC piston to return to rest position. I still need to finish bleeding the system and install a proper plug on the junction block since the rear brake line has been split and rerouted. And I have to do something for a brake light switch. Keeping everyone posted

Picked up a 3/16" plug; capped off the junction block where the rear brake line split of from and bled the system----------finally have a working brake pedal. Still need to rig up a stoplight switch but that's for another day; I kinda sorta need to get the car running first between dead starter, etc.