This is a picture essay on taking a racing small block Mopar fuel pump and modifying it for use on a Stude V8. Since this car is an R2, I'll include adding the boost reference line and closing the atmospheric vent. used a Carter Strip Super Fuel Pump #M6270. About $80. Here's the critter new from the box. So the first thing to do is take it apart.

Removing the 8 screws that hold the bowl on is first.

Now we'll work on getting that operating lever out. The pivot for the lever is pinned in place with a pin in a blind hole covered by a plug staked into place. I used a dremel to relieve the staking and pried the plug out.

Next I drilled a 1/16" hole in from the blind end of the pin and used a pin punch to push the pin out through the formerly plugged end.

Withdraw the operating lever and diaphram.

That's about it for disassembly. Now for the modifications we'll want. The biggest thing is sealing and adding the boost reference circuit.   If you car is normally aspirated you will want to skip ahead to the operating lever mods. For the rest of us, let's make some chips fly.

There is a boss conveniently located right where we need a fitting to attach the boost reference line from the supercharger. I drilled a small starter hole in the center of this boss into the top of the pump housing

I drilled it out and tapped it for 1/4" pipe thread. Next I went to the atmospheric vent. I chose to tap it part way through and ran an allen screw with thread locker to close it off.

Now we seal the pivot pin removal hole we drilled by tapping and threadlocking a small allen screw there.

Now we modify the operating lever to properly contact the camshaft. Pretty much follow the directions as found on Bob's site. https://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/fuelpump/r2modfp/r2modfp.html which is from a post in 2008 on the SDC forum. Use heat, not just a big hammer to do the job.

Reassembly is pretty much the opposite way it came apart. Make sure to clean out all the little aluminum bits from all the nooks and crannies.

When reassembling the bowl you will probably find it easier to reclock it so the fittings work out better for the Stude. The Mopar arrangement is a little different. Just point the output port directly away from the operating lever.

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