Thread: 53/54 C/K fender vents

Jeff- thank you so much. I am impressed with the blueprint- type drawing. I have the correct springs, correct rod setup, that's all correctly assembled. . I have to recheck my installation tonight, but there is no drain hole in the bottom of the duct; I've looked for it. I can't imagine I mounted the duct tube upside down, I think it only goes in one way, it was angled for the original blower to mount high in the inner fender. I removed that blower , for other reasons. . May be that rust or some debris is in the hole. I think my temporary spring is what is causing the problem, making it snap closed. I may just have to drill a small hole in the bottom of the duct. How close to the inside kick-panel sheet metal , is that spring attachment hole? is it just barely inside ? thanks again- manny

Nice pic, i printed a copy for future referance for myself, thanks.

Is there supposed to be an inner door on the drivers side? I don't have one and it seems odd to me.

No door on driver's side, but there is a screen. The reason for the passenger side door is to determine how the heat or outside air will be diverted. Outside door open and inside door open "fresh air" is forced in to cabin.
Outside door open, inside door closed, air is forced into the duct work for the Climatizer. You can also cheat a bit by cracking the inside door open about an inch or so when heating the car to add some fresh air in. Also you need to crack open the vent window about 3/4 inch to have hot air drawn into cabin from under the seat.

Jeff- thanks a million, again. i live near bill fennessee, he knows theses parts cold, and is a big vendor for various stude things, esp rubber. He and I went over this, he also said the same about the attachment. I had the ductwork apart, I suspect I have that groove at the top, I could feel it, rather than at the bottom. I don't quite see how, because the thing really goes together and fits inside only one way. The easiest will be to just drill a little hole and attach the spring there. I actually have a 56 hawk dash in this 53, so the reach rod is a little longer on the hawk, because of the difference in the glove boxes; so I have to move the bracket attachment on the dash a little to the left. I knew this, but didn't want to start modifying things until I understood the damn thing better. If i read you correctly, open vent is lever to the left, closed vent is lever to the right. I think putting the spring attachment lower, and using the correct spring with the right rate constant will get it right. You've been a huge help, and thanks for all the effort with drawings, etc. On my other 53, I actually welded the things in, and completely effaced them with bodywork, it makes the car look better, but as mickey mouse as they really are, they work, and that car gets way hot and the ventilation is really missed. I thought better of it this time around. - thanks, m weiss

Suggestion about heat, or how to lower it. Since I imagine you are down to bare floor. Buy some of that "Dynamat" it lowers heat and lowers sound. I have had it in my Hawk for about 4 or 5 years and it makes it a bit more bearable to drive in NY traffic during July and August.

Originally Posted by bondobilly

No door on driver's side, but there is a screen. The reason for the passenger side door is to determine how the heat or outside air will be diverted. Outside door open and inside door open "fresh air" is forced in to cabin.
Outside door open, inside door closed, air is forced into the duct work for the Climatizer. You can also cheat a bit by cracking the inside door open about an inch or so when heating the car to add some fresh air in. Also you need to crack open the vent window about 3/4 inch to have hot air drawn into cabin from under the seat.

Thanks, you've confirmed what I thought, I didn't know about the different openings effect on things tho, so thats good to know.

Originally Posted by mrobertweiss

Jeff- thanks a million, again. i live near bill fennessee, he knows theses parts cold, and is a big vendor for various stude things, esp rubber. He and I went over this, he also said the same about the attachment. I had the ductwork apart, I suspect I have that groove at the top, I could feel it, rather than at the bottom. I don't quite see how, because the thing really goes together and fits inside only one way. The easiest will be to just drill a little hole and attach the spring there. I actually have a 56 hawk dash in this 53, so the reach rod is a little longer on the hawk, because of the difference in the glove boxes; so I have to move the bracket attachment on the dash a little to the left. I knew this, but didn't want to start modifying things until I understood the damn thing better. If i read you correctly, open vent is lever to the left, closed vent is lever to the right. I think putting the spring attachment lower, and using the correct spring with the right rate constant will get it right. You've been a huge help, and thanks for all the effort with drawings, etc. On my other 53, I actually welded the things in, and completely effaced them with bodywork, it makes the car look better, but as mickey mouse as they really are, they work, and that car gets way hot and the ventilation is really missed. I thought better of it this time around. - thanks, m weiss

When installing the 56 dash in a 53, is the reach rod the only other 56 piece you need for the vent? I've got a 56 dash waiting to be installed.

john

John: In the process now, of doing this. It looks like the bracket just needs to be remounted about an inch to the left. If you look at the parts book, there are several rods listed for the different 53-58 models. The different gloveboxes and the dash designs account for this.

As for dynamat, I think its pretty worthless for heat control; I have it in another 53, it's just butyl 5 mm thick with foil. Its good for sound control, really. The best is a ceramic filled foil, insulshield, and there are others that are similar, heatshieldproducts.com. I would not use dynamat on anything but the inside roof, or door panels. It is again, worthless for firewall and real heat control..... thanks m weiss