Put a bead of the glazing compound on the inside channel of the rubber, then place the rubber on the glass./// Then wrap a string around the outside rubber channel, ending with both loose ends of the string at the top, center of the windshield.//// Next, place the stainless moldings back in the rubber. You will not be able to put the moldings in once the glass is installed, so make sure you do this first.//// Next, lay a bead of the glazing compound on the outside lip of the windshield opening where the rubber/glass combination will go from the outside. Make sure you put a little more glazing compound at the upper and lower corners of the windshield, and along the a-pillars.//// this next step is easier with three people. Have one helper on each side of the car to press the windshield against the opening. then you need to get inside the car and pull each loose end of the string (now at the top center of the opening) down and towards you, I believe, which will pull the inside edge of the rubber over the windshield opening lip.
Have your helpers on the outside push slightly more at the top center where you are starting, then work out towards the sides... top first, of course. Their pressure -- not much is needed -- combined with you pulling downward on the string to flip the inner edge of the weather strip, will seat the rubber. Just work across the top, down the sides, then across the bottom.//// It can be a little messy, as the compound will ooze out some, but that is good. Your windshield will not leak water.//// It really is not too bad to do.... The front windshield is easier than the rear, simply because it is smaller and flatter.//// Apr07 First a comment on insterting the stainless. After we got the rubber on the glass, I taped the outdoor side inside edge of the rubber to the glass almost all the way around. This kept the rubber from falling off the glass when we snaped in the trim. My wife and I did the front and it was like pouring piss out of a boot with instructions on the heal. I had another friend come to help with the back. As instructed in this group somewhere, we did not use any goop or lubricants. The first time we tried to install the rear window we had the lower edge started real good but the front of the glass was up too high, something like in figure 48 in my shop manual. We didn't do much banging at the start. It was a bitch to get in. We spent about an hour and a half, and we got one side in but inspite of increased banging, lost the other side. We popped the glass out and studied the book again and concluded we did almost everything right except for the tie and the white coats. The second time I sprayed some scotch guard on a rag and just wiped a little on the bottom edge of the frame before we started. We placed the window in the frame so that it was bearing the same all around with the bottom edge not tucked in at all. We started roping on the bottom and my friend kept banging on the glass with his hand and as the bottom slipped in the rest of the glass just stayed neatly in the frame waiting to be roped in. He just kept banging on the glass as I slowly and evenly pulled the string on both sides and rolled out the gasket. It just happened and it looks good. I think the tie was a big part of our success. Bill === I did it the easy way, I hired a glass guy to install the rear window on my hawk. But I did play the role of helping him. Best $50 I ever spent. He used foamy window cleaner to lube the gasket. Then he just put the bottom of the gasket on the metal flange and pulled the string rolling it onto the flange all the way around ending in the middle of the top. It just went in as nice as if it were meant to be there. MikeW www.packardhawk.co =========== Best tip I can add is to put the rubber on the glass for a couple days to 'get comfortable'. Jeff