Studebaker - I can give you my opinion but that's all it is, just my opinion. Depending on whether the R 2 is an automatic or stick: I think the automatice could use a very similar set up for the distributor curve. Set the initial at about 10 to 12 at idle with a total mechanical of about 22 to 24 so the total is about 34 and with the total coming in around 2200 rpm. With a stick, I would think you would not want it all coming in quite that quick, maybe not until about 2500. This will all depend on the type of gasoline you are able to get or want to use and you would have to experiment some to find out what actually works the best. After doing this set up, I would try it out and if you do not get a ping at any time, then I would try upping the initial timing two degrees until you hear a ping, then back off to the previous setting. I like to run as much intial timing as possible (no starter kick back, run on after shutting off hot, etc.) and then add the mechanical to get a total around 34 (36 if you have good fuel). Ted Harbit tedharbit@aol.com 11/20/2000 11:38 PM Nov 2000 --------------------------------------------------------------- While the shop manual doesn't state it, the actual timing at idle, with the vacuum advance disconnected, is 4 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). This is the same as a standard Studebaker 289 V-8. I found that my R2 starts more readily and revs faster with idle timing at 6 to 8 degrees BTDC, and fully advanced timing of 40 to 42 degrees in by 2500 to 3000 rpm. The advance curve is available in any Avanti or standard Lark and Hawk shop manual (for the Jet-Thrust engine). I don't remember the full centrifugal advance for the R-2 engine, but I think its only about 24 degrees BTDC because of Studebaker's fear of detonation under boost. Of course, all of the vacuum advance goes away under boost, so the 40 - 42 degree total advance number is designed to give you better fuel economy at cruising speeds. Maybe someone else can look up the shop manual and give you the advance points by degrees and rpm. Also, call Dave Thibeault for the most effective advance curve using today's fuels. Thanks, Chris ------------------------------------------ Another timing method is to disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor, and set the timing at 24 degrees at 1600 R.P.M. Bob Ziff ------------------------------------------ That's how I discovered that idle timing is 4 degrees BTDC. ------------------------------------------ My shop manual says 24 degrees at 1,450 rpm - are you kidding? 4 degrees at idle???? Lord, that may explain part of my overheating Chris! Quick everyone, jump in with whatever verifiable info you have! ------------------------------------------ I have a Tune-up chart that states Timing Procedure: 1. Bring engine to operating temperature 2. Connect tachometer. 3. Connect timing light to No. 1 spark plug or distributor cap tower. 4. Disconnect distributor vacuum line 5. R1: set idle speed with transmission in neutral R2: set idle speed to 1600rpm with transmission in neutral 6: Observe timing at crankshaft damper and turn distributor to obtain recommended setting 7: Reconnect vacuum line and reset to proper idle speed Timing: (BTDC) R1: 4 degrees at idle rpm; R2: 24 degrees at 1600 rpm Idle speed noted at 650 rpm for both manual and auto trans..... ----------------------------------------- Now, can anyone take a gander at the shop manual chart and tell us what maximum centrifugal and vacuum advance is at what rpm for the R1-R2? I think the 24 degrees BTDC at 1600 rpm for the R2 is as much mechanical advance as the distributor puts out, but is there any indication of the additional degrees of advance brought in by the vacuum canister? Thanks, Chris ------------------------------------------ Yep, when I set my R2 distributor up for 24 degrees BTDC at 1600 rpm, a la the shop manual, it dropped to 4 degrees BTDC at idle (about 650 rpm). The R2 mechanical advance comes in quick. Thanks, Chris ------------------------------------------ Hey Chris, that 4 degrees BTDC at idle was with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, right? Must say the electronic ignition I installed in the Delco distributor is working slick - not HEI I'll admit but so much nicer - smooth. Now I want to make sure I have the timing right. I notched it back to 20 degrees with the vacuum disconnected/plugged and the pinging is totally gone. -- Keith ------------------------------------------ I have seen several forum discussions on timing different models of Studebaker engines. But the conversation seems to go offline before the details are made obvious. Clearly timing is critical on a blown engine or you quickly have a blown blown engine. The subject would make a chapter in a book. I would settle for an article. Would those of you who are expert on the subject collaborate on an article? With pictures? Could you slip a picture of a Paxton into it. i.e. when you discuss the pressure feedback line to the back of the fuel pump diaphragm? There are those of us with atmospheric air pumps who have never seen one. This would make one heck of an article. PCKing ----------------------------------------- If you are just looking for a picture of an R-2 blower setup, just go to the page below, click on 'My cars" , than select 63 R-2 and you'll see two engine pictures. The little hose that goes to the fuel pump is not visible, but it's on the side of the supercharger outlet to the carb. John Poulos ------------------------------------------