================================ Back to basics..... Pop the cap off...... Tap the starter until the points are closed. Turn the key on. Flip the point open and shut with a small screwdriver. Do they spark at the points?? If yes, then put a spark plug wire in the coil with a spark plug in the wire. Put the spark plug against the block (or clamp it). Turn the key on again. Flip the points with a screwdriver. Is there spark at the plug? If you don't have spark at the points, check for voltage to the distributor when the key is on. Check for voltage to the points when the key is on. If no voltage at the distributor, go back and double check your ignition switch. If voltage is at the distributor, but not at the points, check the little wire inside the distributor to the advance plate. After you do this, you can set the points, but make sure you have a good circuit first. Keep it simple... A Stude is a basic machine and you use basic procedures with it. You'll get there.... Jeff ========================================== Crank the engine with the distributor cap off and you should see a spark between the points as they open and close. If you don't and yet have power to coil, there is a bad ground. If they (the points) spark, then your problem is the distributor cap, rotor, coil wire, or thereabouts in the high voltage. ========================================== Connect a 12V test light to the ( - ) terminal of the ignition coil. That's the wire that goes to the distributor. Ground the clip lead of the test light. Have a friend turn the engine over with the starter. The test light should flash repeatedly; once for every time the points open. If you get no illumination at all, then either the points are never closing, or else you are not getting 12 volts to the ( + ) side of the coil. If the lamp remains illuminated all the time, then the points are not closing properly. You can use an emery board, or a points file to dress burned points, but with a new set, just draw a piece of clean cardstock like a business card through them to remove any film of oil that may be present. Are you sure the distributor cam is turning when you crank the engine? Perhaps the cam gear lost a few teeth. Like Jeff and John said, start from the basics. There is nothing unique or difficult about Studebaker ignition systems, and even if you get a problem with the Prestolite distributor, it will be OBVIOUS. The HEI distributors in GM 350s can fail in weird and wonderful ways; and if you have to replace a pickup coil, the distributor has to come COMPLETELY apart. BTW, I doubt you'd smoke a 12 volt test light connecting it to a spark plug lead, because there isn't enough current available to burn it out. But it won't light either. You used to be able to buy neon test lights, that will flash brilliantly when hit by a zot from the coil. Gordon Richmodn July 2003 ========================== Does your car have a ballast resistor? If it does then there is a separate wire going to the coil for the starting and one for the running. Try running a wire right from the pos side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. You will bypass any wiring problems before the distributor. If the car has spark then you have a wiring problem. Disconnect the wire to shut it off because you have bypassed the key. Ernie Avanti R2 R5388 July 2003 ========================== Suggest taking added precautions by: Disconnect the wire that's going there (pos side of coil) first, in case there's a ground problem in the ignition. Connect to coil first, then slap-touch the wire to the battery before trying to hard-connect. Karl ============================= D D Ernie Avanti R2 R5388 Jly 2003