Heavy Duty Sway Bars - Avanti / Avanti II


1" front / 3/4"  rear. - Uses same attachment points as stock bar, although
mounting the front bar is a bit tough due to the increased stiffness.

Extreme handling improvement, no lean whatsoever, but the counter to this is
that the stress placed on the frame is significantly increased.



Recomendation -
 Under the rear wheel well arch, place additional welds to strut perch 
to strengthen the mount, and / or add #8 bolts thru frame flange to add 
strength.  These have been observed to rip off the frame 
under high stress situations due to the increased stiffness.

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Others

you can just upgrade to a later style that has frame attaching pedestals for
around $100.00

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The thickness/style of Stude sway bars increased around 1958 by about
1/8" which is nearly double the effect.  The early one's still mounted
in the traditional manner but the latter one's had pedestals, (two
different styles but about equal in effectiveness).

My Lark has the thicker bar but traditional setup and is quite effective
especially after getting wider rim wheels.  All types are generally
available used from vendors and are well worth the investment on
pre-1958 cars.


-- 
JT

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I have his (thibeaux) kit front and rear on my 53.  I can take any car you name
on a cloverleaf.  The front mounts Avanti-Style.  The rear mounts like
a Hawk.  I don't think Jim Pepper recommends mounting a front bar
without a rear.
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Stan, et all

Just a word to the wise...
Current "kits" can and most likely be a waste of your money.

Factory bars are made from a spring type material, 5160, 4130, 4340. 
In other words, "MUST" be heat treated after forming.

Most (all that I've checked on!) are made with 1020, 1018, 1040, in
other words "mild steel".  About the springyness (memory) of your
elbow.

If the bar is formed cold and "NOT" heat treated after forming, do
yourself a favor, move on to another.  All they do is add weight to
the car and lighten your wallet.  They do little to nothing to add to
the roll stiffness of your car.

If you want a flatter cornering car, the easiest way is to install a
bar from a late (70's, 80's) model car, 1.00 dia, 1.12 dia, 1.25 dia.
Again.....a (the big 3) "factory" made bar!

The addition of a larger front bar, (as lot of us have done) the
overall drivability and safe handeling will be greatly aided by the
addition a rear anti-sway bar. A frt. bar only, creates an oversteer
condition.  While it all depends on the way you drive, wether you'll
ever notice the condition........best not to feel it in an emergency
avoidance situation.

If you're looking to remain "stock", still, a "factory" Studebaker bar
will work much better.  Currently available (that I've checked on
======================

A lot of considerations factor into handling characteristics.  For
instance, as soon as I got rid of the 4 1/2" Lark wheels in favor of
some '55 President wheels, the Lark handles totally different.  Another
is the condition of the front springs.  The sway bar is only an integral
component of a steering/suspension system.

Another example is that on my Power Hawk that had the original wimpy
front bar, I swapped in a later thicker bar and added a rear setup out
of a '55 prez sedan.  A very substantial improvement resulted.


======================
INSTALLATION...
The secret, according to Dave, is to install the rubbers into the J
mounts, install the hooks into the slots at the back, use LOTS of
liquid soap and a BIG drift to line up the mounting holes, and then
muscle it into position!


=========
 I installed a 1978 Firebird T/A bar on the back of my old 1961 Hawk. It 
fit well except that the support brackets ripped out of the rails.


    If you know of anyone looking for a rear bar- the firebird-camaro one will work perfectly and quite cheaply with your frame modication. Thanks for writing  Joe Flannery

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