Apr 2005 ------- To mount a 4 BBl Edelbrock carb on a Stude manifold, you need to raise the carb a bit to resolve 2 issues: On a stock WCFB manifold, the rear throttle ports are too small to allow the Edelbrock butterfly to work. On a 62-64 manifold, this isn't an issue, but the other issue prevails. On any Stude 4 BBL manifold, the lower part of the Edelbrock throttle linkage will hit the heat stove, on the drivers side. You can cut the lower part off, but this voids the warranty and will not allow any other use for the carb. So, using a gasket stack or spacer under the carb, to raise it a bit over 1/2" is the best solution; The stacked heat insulator gasket is a Mr. Gasket p/n# 97, or an Edelbrock p/n# 9266. The #97 is 1/4" thick and the #98 is 1/2" thick. The #97 is 1/4" thick and the #98 is 1/2" thick. Aluminum adapter from Speedway motors, part # 1351935. This isn't 1" thick though...but it will allow the secondary butterfly's to clear a WCFB opening. If you need a 1" thick spacer, use a Mr. Gasket #6005 (open center- aluminum) , or a Mr. Gasket # 3404 (4 hole- phenolic). Summit has a nice 4 hole aluminum 2" thick one for $19.95 p/n#SUM-G1411 (Thanks to jeff Rice for the part #'s) ----------- MrGasket 98. Carburetor Heat Dissipator. Contains 4 gaskets and 3 alum. spacers. 1/2" thick. I have them in stock for $14.95 plus shipping. (forr62@bellsouth.net) Jerry Forrester ---------------------------- --------------------------- Carb part #'s 1403 500 cfm electric choke $270 1404 500 cfm manual choke $220 1405 600 cfm manual choke $228 1406 600 cfm electric choke $257 9904 500 cfm reman. manual choke $185 but not available on a regular basis 9905 600 cfm reman. manual choke $180 9906 600 cfm reman. electric choke $190 ------------------------------ MR Gasket makes a plastic adapter 5 1/8" to 4 7/32. Part number 2082. This should work inverted. Cost is about $6.00 -------------------------------- The adapter I used is from Speedway Motors, part number 1351935. For the "square bore" manifolds and comes with hardware. Does raise the carb enough to clear the old choke tubes and is about fifteen bucks or so. I'm going to start experimenting with AVS carbs soon; I have been "collecting" them. The secondary setup is slightly different and easier to adjust. Studebaker George --------------------------------- The Mr Gasket #98 setup- is the one with 4-holes. They are very close in size to the original AFB holes. I use a die-grinder to taper the manifold holes out to match the gaskets- though you don't "have to" in a street-driver car. It helps performance a bit to taper them. The Mr Gasket #98A has only 1 large square hole. I don't like to use this one- because of the turbulence created in the airflow. Again- this is not just an aluminum spacer- it is a stack of gaskets and aluminum sheet gaskets. This really keeps the heat away from the carb- better than the solid aluminum one. ----------------------------------- Without a spacer- you will need to cut/bend the Edelbrock's throttle arm- this would most likely void any warrenty. AND, you will have to remove the choke tubes from the right side of the manifold. With the spacer gaskets- you have minimal installation trouble. You "might" see 5 HP difference on a dyno, but I doubt you'd "feel" it in any recognizable way on a Street Car. =============================================== I thought I would go out to the garage and cogitate on the rear plug fouling mystery. Aside from the possibility that crankcase ventilation in any socially acceptable manner was new ground for most in 1964 and the rear mounted, rudimentary, at best, PCV valve could be the cause, I thought I would look for other possibilities. 1st I thought I would make sure that my own rear plugs were not fouling. They have been in there for about 2 years and while there isn't much road mileage there has been a lot of idling, engine racing and the sort in those years. My PCV is still mounted in the rear of the Edelbrock because I don't want it to be mounted in the front. Spoils the look, in my eyes. Well aside from a little soot from running WAYYYY too rich for a couple months they are quite dry. So, for now, the PCV isn't doing anything weird to the rear plugs. But, it's quite obvious that the heads do have a rearward slant to them. When I fabricated the rear mount for the 700R4 I put a level on the carb to find the right height for the spacer blocks I needed. So unless the carb is supposed to be tilted forward the heads do have a rearward slant to them. What comes to mind instantly is that if the valve seals and or guides were allowing a little oil to pass the rear cylinders would be most susceptible. Combine the motion of acceleration with oil puddling a bit at the return hole in the rear of the head add some vacuum and I think you could be drawing a fair a amount of oil into the rear cylinders. I figure the action of a worn ring would deposit oil on the cylinder wall to be burned toward the end of the explosion. I'm guessing, but it kind of makes sense that the flame has already ignited and is spreading and burning what is deposited on the walls as it travels across the piston. A good case for all plugs fouling but not just the rears. That's why I think isolated fouling in the rear happens with a bad guide or seals. The oil that is drawn though the guide is on the intake and exhaust valves. It is being sucked along into the top combustion chamber. Maybe it's too heavy to get drawn directly into the mixture and because it's leaking every time either valve moves it's not in the right spot to get completely burned. It also leaks a little when the engine is off mixes a little with some carbon and gets pasted to the plug because of the residual heat that isn't hot enough to burn it off. Hence the rear plugs fouling before others even though all the seals and guides may be worn. Or maybe because I'm bored and there isn't a darn thing on TV worth paying attention to and I didn't have enough of cars selling them for 10 hours today that I have to spend every waking moment doing something automotive related that I bothered to concoct a whole scenario that has no foundation in logic or engineering and the reason the back plugs foul is because there was a conspiracy between the engineers at Studebaker and Champion to sell more plugs inconspicuously without billows of smoke coming from the tailpipe. Ernie R2 R5388 ------------------------ JETTING (MAY 2005) The Edelbrock proved a bit of a challenge. Not because it's an Edelbrock but because the engine is requiring a much richer jetting than I thought would have been necessary. I couldn't imagine it would need to run 3 stages richer in the primaries and a stage richer in the secondaries. It proves to me that every engine is truly unique. I began the installation with jetting comparable to the original factory AFB settings. Went up to std Edelbrock settings and still would get a power loss at high RPM. I was so sure that it wasn't the jetting that I spent way too much time on the timing. Finally, with 98's and a 7147 rod in the front and 98's in the back it pulls nicely to 5000 rpm. There may be room for more tuning but I will save that for the dragstrip next year. Ernie ------