Yes, it's in a 1970 tho, not with a Stude engine.  I didn't have to 
use Dave's kit, altho I have picked his brain a bit on the performance 
aspects of the transmission.  That's the reason he probably associated 
me with a Stude install.  I have owned an R2 before and can comment on 
what you may have to resolve in the process of getting it in.   

Easy things:  
           Change the driveshaft - You have to get one made to fit and 
balanced - Usually a good truck driveline place is quickest -  measurement 
is after the trans is bolted in -  You have to acquire a good yoke for the 
trans from a similar install Camaro or  Vette -  measure the distance , 
center (bottom) yoke to center (bottom)  yoke.  You have to provide the 
yoke to the driveshaft guy so he knows what universal to use.
           Change the Shifter quadrant.  700 is a 4 speed - Even tho I 
used a Corvette console assembly, you may be able to just hook up the 
existing shifter rod to the trans.  The internal detent pattern will change 
the location of the shift lever, so you'll have to get a shifter quadrant 
lens from an 82 or something that used the 200R4 ( same pattern) I've heard 
that the leverage on this fiot is wrong, so you may have to use a GM shifter.
         The 700 trans mount is almost right on the original Stude support.  
You just have to enlarge the holes in the crossmember and use big washers.  
I believe these bolt hole threads on the 700 are metric also, as was the 
nut holding the shift detent lever on.
           More tenuous...
       The one thing I would be concerned about is the height of the trans 
in the tunnel with a 63-64 Stude.   With my car, the body was raised to 
accomodate the GM engine ( supposedly), so the trans had 1 - 2  inches of 
clearance in the tunnel.  The body on Studes, as you know , is right down 
on the frame and the space is significantly less.  
       The exhaust on the drivers side has to be modified as the 700 pan is 
bigger overall and offset to the left..    I took my intermediate pipes, 
reversed them and had the ends swedged to fit on the opposite way.  This gave 
me the wider  cut around the pan, but then you have to enlarge the pass-thru 
holes in the X-member to allow the wider routing.
    You have to fashion a means of attaching the TV throttle cable to the 
carb ( new Carter or Edelbrock), then raise the carb to avoid the manifold 
interfering with the TV ear attachment on the carb.  You also have to figure 
out a way to establish a TV cable lock   mechanism behind the carb to hold 
the TV cable in place.
    Then you have to figure out a way to accurately adjust the initial TV 
pressure.  If you screw this up, you can trash the trans and quickly if you 
run out and do a power shift.  I recommend a guage attached to the main line 
pressure port , right over the shift lever on the trans body.   The pressures 
can be different for various applications..   You should be able to feel the 
shift in all ranges 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 at moderate throttle.   If the 3-4 is 
just an rpm drop, you have to increase the cable pull a it and put up with 
a harder 1-2 and 2-3 or else there's a pack of clutches that will be wiped

  You have to wire the torque converter lockup to function automatically or 
on demand.  Depending on your axle ratio, the heat buildup can be dramatic.  
I have a temp guage on mine and when it gets to 210, it's switched on lockup.  
You can watch the needle drop as you drive.  Heat is the big enemy of this 
trans.  Most 700 failures involve the 4th gear system.    In fear of damaging 
mine, I added an external filter, added an external cooler and ventilated the 
lower converter housing ( then added an air scoop that became the best bug 
catcher you could find) ....
    In 4th and lockup, the engine loafs around 1600-2000 rpm at 60. depending 
on your axle ratio. You have to be careful not to hook a 700 up to a hi-perf 
engine  unless you have a radically high rear, since the cruising rpm will 
be outside the lowest operating envelope of the engine.  This is kind of 
like my situation as the range on my Jasper is 2100-6800.   My mileage drops 
to about 14-15 unless I can cruise at 80-90 mph ( where can you do that 
anymore.)  that;'s why my lockup is switched, so I can drive without it on 
cool days ( it adds 2-300 rpm while off)

    I never test drove a car with a 700 before doing this and  was surprised 
at the 1st gear performance.  In fact, I didn't like it.  My axle is 3:54 and 
from a standing start, it's zip-bam-TYmam.  The 1-2 shift is hard and comes in 
fast,   I was told that after 2-3000 miles it softens, but has'nt yet on 
mine

   That's all I can think of.       There are some photos on the website 
regarding my install
=====================

The TV cable attachment point on the throttle linkage:

In relation to the throttle shaft centerpoint, the TV cable mount is 
"about 1.094 - 1.125" below and about .025 - .5 inches to the rear of the
shaft pivot point

You should not use the standard kick-down cable hole in the Edelbrock for
your 700 TV cable connection.  When the throttle opens and pulls the cable,
the "geometry" of the swing from that connection is incorrect.  The distance
from the pivot point on the throttle and the geometry of the "swing" as the
cable pulls is the "critical" aspect of the TV cable attachment.  You "MUST"
buy the adaptor if you expect the trans to shift correctly and last any
period of time.