you can change the upper inner a-arm bushings to solid steel bushings like the R3s used, and also 1952 Studebakers. Just find a 1952 Stude and use its upper a-arms and bushings.... or try and locate NOS a-arms and bushings for a 1952. These a-arms from 1952 look just like the 1953 to 1984 a-arms, except the holes are different for accepting the steel bushings. 1953 was the first year to use rubber bushings. I converted my 1963 Lark convertible a number of years ago to the 1952 upper a-arms and they work great.... and help it corner much better.... less roll.... You could also use upper a-arms from 1951, but they physically look different, and I think the steel bushings are a little smaller too.... If you find and use Delrin bushings, the advantage is that you can keep your current a-arms...... ------------------------------------------------------ Questions for the experts.... A) If you would like to change the upper inners to the (solid) R-3 = suspension style, do you have to change the entire control arm to an = early 50's unit or will the pin and caps fit the existing arm. =20 B) Understandably (?), you can just change to delrin bushings to achieve = the same effect, as these have no pliable material involved and can be = greased for longevity. eh? Bob Johnstone ------------------------------------------------------ Bob: Yes, you can change the upper inner a-arm bushings to solid steel bushings like the R3s used, and also 1952 Studebakers. Just find a 1952 Stude and use its upper a-arms and bushings.... or try and locate NOS a-arms and bushings for a 1952. These a-arms from 1952 look just like the 1953 to 1984 a-arms, except the holes are different for accepting the steel bushings. 1953 was the first year to use rubber bushings. I converted my 1963 Lark convertible a number of years ago to the 1952 upper a-arms and they work great.... and help it corner much better.... less roll.... You could also use upper a-arms from 1951, but they physically look different, and I think the steel bushings are a little smaller too.... If you find and use Delrin bushings, the advantage is that you can keep your current a-arms...... Lew ------------------------------------------------------ I've got the Delrins on my GT Hawk and they pressed right into the stock control arms. I'm not sure I would use them again, as it bumped the number of grease fittings to 27 on the car and I didn't notice any improvement in handling. Thanks, Chris Altenburg ------------------------------------------------------ The frames(where the body sits on) were the same. The upper control arm frames on the R3 and many taxi cabs were the 1951-52 version.The bottom "A" frame on the R3 was the standard rubber bushing one as used on regular cars. (1953-66) The upper control arm frames(R3,51-51) used the steel bushings that needs greasing. They worked a lot better because if greased regularily they allowed the "A" frames to move easily unlike the rubber bushing ones that only allowed them to travel a little. The rubber bushing ones only depended on the amount of twist allowed by the rubber. If you ever strip a 1951-52 car (Comm.or Champ), save the front suspensio for your later Stude. You can not believe how nice the ride. An alternative for 1953-66 cars would be to buy the "Delrin" bushings sold by Chuck Collins at http://Studebakerparts.com/ I stock newly made rubber bushings if you want to stay stock. A word of caution. The bolt used to holds these rubber bushings in some times worked its way out and serious sudden handling problems occured. I believe that the original bolts were "Nylok" These were bolts that had a small nylon plug in the treads that locked the bolt in place. The bolts are 3/8-24 X 1 1/8" long.Grade 8 They carry a Stude part number ,so they are not standard bolts. If you use a generic bolt ,make sure that they are Grade 8 and 1 1/8"long. Use a good quality lock washer or "Loctite". I stock these bolts. R.Kapteyn at studebaker@mac.com